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This page consists of information to assist in identifying and servicing your motor, as well as historical items of interest. Below is a selection of past issues of our monthly newsletter, OUTBOARD NEWS. November
2001 Click here for the story of Robert McCulloch, the driving force behind McCulloch outboard motors. Click here for the story of Cameron B Waterman and the first outboard motor.
Welcome to the November
2001 issue of Outboard News, an electronic newsletter for outboard
enthusiasts.
Industry News
The big outboard news this week is that Bombardier
is gearing up production of new Johnson and Evinrude motors. In case you
hadn't heard, Outboard Marine Corp., the parent company of Johnson and
Evinrude, declared bankruptcy in December of 2000. There were many reasons for
this, not the least of which was the upcoming anti-pollution regulations.
Bombardier Recreational
Products purchased the assets of OMC, promptly sold all the OMC boat lines,
and has been preparing since to produce new motors for the 2002 model year.
First off the assembly line last month was a 90 HP Evinrude Ficht, with
other models to follow.
Of great concern to
owners of OMC motors, especially older ones, is what this will mean as far as
obtaining replacement parts. So far, common replacement parts for newer motors
have been available, but with some important exceptions. Machined parts, such
as shafts and gears, are sometimes nowhere to be found. One of OMC's problems
in recent years was their practice of farming out production of machined parts
to outside machine shops. This led to shortages of certain parts, which
would hold up the entire assembly line, which meant shortages of motors to the
consumer. Because some of these outside suppliers were forced out of business
by OMC's bankruptcy, the parts they produced are non-existent.
Bombardier hasn't said
whether they will continue to produce parts for the older motors, but it will
probably be a question of economics. If there is not enough demand for
the parts to make it profitable to make them, once current stocks are gone,
that will be it.
For those who own OMC
inboard/outboards, it is bad news. Bombardier has discontinued everything for
them.
Service Department
This months service topic will be winterizing.
Winterizing should be done before the first hard freeze, if possible.
Fortunately, winterizing an outboard is easy with a few basic supplies.
The most important thing is to drain the lube out of the lower unit, in case
there is any water in it. Water in a gearcase can freeze and crack the
housing, and ruin the bearings and shafts. If there is any more than a
few drops of water, you probably have one or more leaking seals. Winter is a
good time to reseal your unit. One of our service topics this winter
will be how to reseal your lower unit, so stay tuned if you want to do it
yourself.
To drain the lube, remove
both the drain and fill plugs in the lower unit, and let all the old lube run
out. To re-fill, you can buy new lube in plastic squeeze tubes, (messy way) or
in quart bottles and use a hand pump. (easy way). Either way, fill through the
bottom drain hole until it begins to run out the upper (vent) hole. Then
install the vent plug, remove the squeeze tube or hand pump, and install
the drain plug.
The next step is to add
stabilizer to the remaining gas in the tank, to prevent the gas from
deteriorating over the winter. If possible, run the stabilized gas
through the motor, either using a flushing attachment hooked up to a garden
hose, or in the water at the dock. Then, disconnect the gas line from
the front of the engine and let the gas burn out until the engine stops. You
may also spray some fogging solution into the carb while running out the gas.
That's all there is to
winterizing your outboard. While the motor is in a vertical position,
all the water will run out of it by itself. The motor can then be stored
outdoors on the boat with no damage.
All the winterizing
supplies mentioned above can be purchased at your local marina or boating
supply store, or through Laing's Outboards at 1-800-463-9001. If you
have any questions about winterizing, call us or send us an email . Our email
address will appear at the end of the newsletter.
Upcoming service topics:
Compression; how do you
test it and what should it be?
Ignition systems; how to
test for good spark, and what to
do if you don't have it.
How to reseal a lower
unit.
Send in your suggestions
Welcome to the January
2002 issue of Outboard News, an electronic newsletter for
the outboard enthusiast.
Industry News
The most important thing this time of year for
the marine industry is the winter boat shows. Manufacturers and dealers
alike are hoping for a good show season to help bring the industry out of
its current slump. We would like to encourage everyone to attend their
local show to see what's new and exciting for this year.
The full line of new
Johnsons and Evinrudes should be at the winter shows. To help recapture lost
market share, Bombardier will offer aggressive promotions and rebate plans
for winter purchases. One new marketing plan for Johnson and Evinrude will
be to separate the lines, and make a major distinction between the two.
Johnson will be geared to the traditional, angler market; offering the
standard carbureted 2-strokes and a new line of 4-strokes. The
Evinrude line will consist of 2-strokes with the Ficht Ram injection system.
Another name
disappears. Mariner outboards will no longer be sold in this country.
Blame US EPA regulations.
Service Department
This month we will discuss the second most
important procedure for assessing the condition of an outboard, and for
diagnosing problems. Last month we talked about compression and the
compression tester. This month the subject is spark to the spark plugs
and the spark tester.
Every outboard,
especially older ones, needs a good, strong, hot spark in order to start
easily and to run properly.
To test for spark, some people ground the spark
plug electrode to the engine block, and then spin the flywheel.
THIS IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH. To do a proper
test, you need a special spark tester. It is a device that you clamp to a
good engine ground, and plug the wires that come out of it into the spark
plug boots. When you spin the flywheel, the spark from each wire will jump
an adjustable gap on the tester, and this will tell you if the spark is
adequate. If you obtain a good spark on all cylinders, you can probably
eliminate the ignition system as a source of problems. If you have no spark
or an intermittent spark, you will need to troubleshoot the ignition system.
There are two basic types of ignition systems. One is the old
fashioned points and condensers, the other is electronic ignition. Next
month we will begin to go inside the old fashioned ignition system.
To see a picture of the spark tester, and to
find out where to get one, go to the helpful products page of my website.
There is a link at the end of the newsletter.
Upcoming service topics:
Troubleshooting the
ignition system.
How to reseal the lower
unit.
Send in your
suggestions
Questions and Answers
There were no questions sent in this month. You
may send in any outboard related question, and I will attempt to answer it
in an upcoming newsletter.
Historical info
Fact: In February 1941, the government issued an
order called M-1-a, which required special permission for the use and
casting of aluminum. Since the outboard was strictly for portable
application, heavy metals could not be substituted for aluminum. This
meant possible bankruptcy for Mercury. It was at this time that the
government expressed a need for a light-weight gasoline motor of
approximately 4 HP, suitable for powering a portable chain saw. In May
1942, Kiekhaefer received a contract for 3,300 saw engines, which turned out
to be the rescue from ruin that the company needed.
In future issues, I will include information
from old factory service bulletins and manuals. Some of you may find this
one interesting; it is a bulletin from 1950 from Mercury concerning KG9
engine timing and synchronizing. If you would like more of this type
of information, let me know. I have a lot of it.
This month's motor is Buccaneer-Gale.
Gale was a division of OMC, the parent company
of Johnson and Evinrude. As a result, the Gale motors are very similar
to Johnson and Evinrude. In some cases almost identical. Gale motors
were called "Buccaneer".
model # starting serial#
HP
1950
1B10
330644 1.5
1B9
330744
3
2B7
331944
5
2B8
335212
12
1951
3S10B 359147
3
3D10B 359147
3
5S10B 362047
5
5D10B 362097
5
12S10B 365588
12
12D10B 370588 12
1952
3D10B 359147
3
5D10B 362097
5
12S10B 365588
12
12D10B 370588 12
1953
3D11B 478335
3
5S10B 362047
5
5D10B 362097
5
12S10B 365588
12
12D10B 370588 12
1954
3D11B 478335
3
5S10B 362047
5
5D10B 362097
5
12D11B 510284 12
1955
3D11B 478335
3
5S11B 566202
5
12D11B 510284
12
1956
3D13B 590881 3
5S12D 594196
5
5D12B 583412
5
5D13B 616780
5
12S12B 600289 12
12D13B 570692 12
12D14B 637321
12
12DE13B 604988 12
12DE14B 595186
12
22D11B 622204
25
22DE11B 587456 25
22DE13B 622617
25
1957
3D14B 646994
3
5S13B 647036
5
5D14B 642835
5
12S13B 647066
12
12D15B 646997 12
12D15BL
12
12DE15B 655020 12
12DE15BL
12
22D14B 647075
25
22DE14B 647090 25
22DE14BL
25
1958
3D15B 709217
3
5S14B 715224
5
5D15B 690702
5
12S13B 697575
12
12D17B 708987 12
22D15B 715974
25
22DE15B 715874
25
35DE10B 726798
35
1959
3D15B 3
5D16B
5
12D18B
12
22D16B
25
22DE16B
25
35D11B
35
35D12B
35
35DE11B
35
35DE12B
35
1960
3D16B
772311
3
5D17B
775436
5
15D10B 772861
15
22D17B 771886 25
22DE17B 772136 25
35D13B 786886
35
35DE13B 789336
35
35DG13B
35
60D10B 798466
60
60DE10B 795386
60
60DG10B 60
1961
3D17B
3
5D18B
5
15D11B
15
25D18B 25
25DE18B
25
40D14B 40
40DG14B
40
40DE14B 40
60D11B 60
60DE11B
60
60DG11B 60
1962
3D18B
3
5D20B
5
15D13B
15
25D19B 25
25DE19B
25
40D15B 40
40DG15B
40
40DE15B
40
60D11B
60
60DE11B
60
60DG11B
60
1963
Buccaneer 3 3
Buccaneer 5
5
Buccaneer15
15
Buccaneer25
25
Buccaneer40
40
Sovereign40
40
Sovereign60
60
1963 was the last year of production by GALE.
Next Month: Champion
Welcome to the February 2002 issue of Outboard News, an electronic newsletter for the outboard enthusiast.
UPCOMING EVENTS
There will be an old outboard motor swap meet
on February 9, 2002. It will be held at our shop located at 5 Ward
Rd, N. Tonawanda NY 14120 starting at 9 AM. It is being sponsored by
the local chapter of the Antique Outboard Motor Club. There will be
old motors and parts for sale and trade. Bring whatever you have to
swap or sell. There will be a large indoor test tank available to
run motors.
INDUSTRY NEWS
There is not much news this time of year.
Local boat shows are continuing, and sales are reported to be very strong.
Johnson and Evinrude are showing a strong resurgence with aggressive sales
and marketing. The takeover by Bombardier should prove to be a
positive move for the industry in general.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
Last month we discussed how to check for spark
to the spark plugs. This month we will learn how to pull the
flywheel to correct any problems in the ignition system.
Pulling the flywheel is sometimes the most
difficult part of the repair job. First step is getting to the flywheel.
Remove the shrouds, recoil, or gas tank from the top of the motor, if it
has any. You must then hold the flywheel while removing the
flywheel nut with the proper size socket on the end of a breaker bar.
The easiest way to hold the flywheel is with a strap wrench. You can
see a picture of one on the helpful products of our website. Next
step is to pull the flywheel. There are several types of pullers
available. The type we use most often on small motors is the simple type
of gear puller with two arms that grab the edges of the flywheel from
above, with a long screw that you tighten on the crankshaft. There
are some motors that this will not work on, or if the flywheel is stuck,
too much pressure applied to the screw can damage the flywheel. In
these cases, use the type of puller similar to a steering wheel puller
with three screws that you screw into threaded holes in the top of
the flywheel. With either puller, after tightening the
center screw against the crankshaft, rap on the top of the screw with a
hammer, and the flywheel should come right off. It is often a good
idea to leave the flywheel nut loosely on the crankshaft, just below
the top of the crankshaft. On some motors, like the small Scott-Atwaters,
you can damage the threads by tightening the puller screw. You may
run into some outboards that this procedure will not work on, for some
reason or another. In this case call or email for further directions.
The arm type puller
can be purchased from any auto parts store, or at Sears. The screw
type puller can be purchased from the same sources, or the outboard
manufactures make a very nice one. We sell the Mercury puller. You
may order this puller or the strap wrench from our website.
Next month we will
discuss what to with the ignition system once you get the flywheel off.
HISTORICAL INFO
This month's motor is Champion.
Year
model
HP
1935
A Std Single 3.2
1936
1B Std Single 3.2
1936
2B Lite Twin 4.4
1936
3B Senior Twin 7.6
1937
S1C Std Single 2.9
1937
D1C Deluxe Single 3.2
1937
S2C Std Lite Twin 3.4
1937
D2C Deluxe Lite Twin 4.4
1937
D3C Deluxe Senior Twin 6.6
1937 R1C
Red Flash Single 3.2
1938
S1D Std Single
2.9
1938
D1D Deluxe Single 3.2
1938
S2D Std Lite Twin 3.4
1938
D2D Deluxe Lite Twin 4.4
1938
D3D Deluxe Senior Twin 6.6
1939
S1E Std Single 2.9
1939
D1E Deluxe Single 3.2
1939
D2D Deluxe Lite Twin 4.4
1939
D3D Deluxe Senior Twin 6.6
1940
S1F Kingfisher Single 3.2
1940
D1F Challenger Single 3.2
1940
S2F Fish Hawk Lite Twin 3.4
1940
D2F Play Boy Lite Twin 5.5
1940
B1F Blue Streak Single 3.2
1941
S1G Kingfisher Single 3.0
1941 D1G
Challenger Single 3.0
1941
S4G400 Std Single 3.6
1941 D4G400
Deluxe Single 3.6
1941
2G Viking Twin
5.3
1941
3G Electra Twin 6.1
1941
M1G Ensign Single 3.0
1941 M4G
Commodore Single 3.6
1941
M2G Admiral Twin 5.3
1942
1H Super Single 3.9
1942
2H Viking Twin 5.8
1946
1J Standard Single 4.2
1946 2J
Deluxe Single 4.2
1947
1J Standard Single 4.2
1947
2J Deluxe Single 4.2
1948
1K Standard Single 4.2
1948
2K Deluxe Single 4.2
1948
4K Twin 7.9
1949
1K 4.2
1949
2K 4.2
1949
4K 7.9
1949
4KS Special Racer 7.9
1950
1L 4.2
1950
2K 4.2
1950
2L-HD 4.2
1950
4K 7.9
1950
4L-HD 7.9
1950
4LS Special Racer 7.9
1951 1L
4.2
1951
2K
4.2
1951
2l-HD 4.2
1951
4K 7.9
1951
4L 8.5
1951
4L-HD 8.5
1951
4L-S Hot Rod Special 8.5
1952
1L 4.2
1952
2K 4.2
1952
2L-HD 4.2
1952
4L 8.5
1952 4L-HD
8.5
1952
4L-S 1X Hot Rod Special 8.5
1953
2M 3.5
1953
3M-GS Shift
5.0
1953
4M-GS Shift
7.5
1953
4M-HD
7.5
1953
6M-GS Shift
15
1953 6M-HD
15
1953
4M-HR ClassJU Hot Rod 7.5
1953
5M-HR Class AU Hot Rod not rated
1953
6M-HR Class BU Hot Rod 15
1954
2MM 3.5
1954
3M-GS Shift 5.0
1954
4M-GS Shift 7.5
1954
4M-HD
7.5
1954
6M-GS Shift 14
1954
6M-HD
15
1954
4M-HR Class JU Hot Rod not rated
1954
4M-HR Midget not rated
1954
5M-HR Class AU Hot Rod not rated
1954
6M-HR Class BU Hot Rod not rated
1955
3MM-GS Shift 5.5
1955
4MM-GS Shift 7.5
1955
6MM-GS Shift 16.5
1955
6MS-GS Shift 16.5
1955
4MM-HR Class AU Hot Rod not rated
1955
6MM-HR Class BU Hot Rod not rated
1956
2N 4.2
1956
3N-S 6
1956
4N-D 7.8
1956
6N-D 16.5
1956
6N-MS 16.5
1956
6N-HR Class BU Hot Rod
not rated
1957-8
2N 4.2
1957-8
3N-S 6
1957-8 4N-D
7.8
1957-8
6N-D 16.5
1957-8
6N-MS 16.5
1957-8
T6N-MS Tandem 33 consisted of twin 16.5's
1957-8
6N-HR Class BU Hot Rod not rated.
Next Month Chris Craft
Welcome to the March 2002 issue of Outboard
News, an electronic newsletter for the outboard enthusiast.
INDUSTRY NEWS
The evolution of the
outboard motor continues. Four stroke outboard motors are gaining in
popularity, as manufacturers continue to improve the technology and
overcome many of the advantages two strokes have always had, such as light
weight and high horsepower.
Honda and Yamaha have
been making four strokes for years, but 2002 marks the introduction of the
big V-6. Honda is selling both a 200 and a 225 HP engine, both based on a
212 cubic inch V-6 60 degree block. Yamaha's big motors are also
200 and 225 HP, based on a 3.3 liter 60 degree V-6 block, with double
overhead cams, 24 valves and tuned intake tubes. The weight is a
modest 580 lbs, comparable to a similar 2 stroke outboard.
Mercury, long known
for its 2 stroke engines, is the world's largest 4 stroke
manufacturer, offering 55 different engines from 4 HP to 115 HP.
Suzuki has come out
with the DF140, a 4 stroke 4 cylinder engine weighing only 410 pounds.
It has dual overhead cams and four valves per cylinder, with a two stage
cam drive and offset driveshaft that make for a smaller overall engine.
Ironically, though,
it is still the conventional 2 stroke that dominates industry wide sales.
The market share breaks down as follows: 70 percent for conventional 2
strokes, 20 percent for 4 strokes and 10 percent for direct-injection 2
strokes.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
A reader asked a question regarding last
issue's discussion on pulling flywheels. He asks: Have you ever
looked at the top of the flywheel on a Johnson TD-20? I do not want to
disengage all those little springs in the rewind mechanism attached to the
flywheel to get to the three screws.
Well, on most motors
that have the springs and pawls on the flywheel, you don't have to take
the mechanism apart to pull the flywheel. Those clever engineers
used a special flywheel nut that has a shoulder on it that pushes against
the bottom of the pulley when you loosen the nut. This acts as its
own flywheel puller and actually makes it easy to remove the flywheel.
Keep those questions
coming.
Service Department
Last month we talked
about pulling the flywheel. this month we will talk about servicing
what you find under the flywheel.
Most small older
outboards have one set of coil, points and condenser under the flywheel
for each cylinder. All of these components must be in good condition in
order to get a strong spark to the spark plug. Unfortunately, it is
difficult for the amateur to test the coil and condenser. There are
special testers for testing these items, and the tester is becoming more
difficult to locate. Years ago, you could carry your coils and
condensers into any marina and ask them to test them for you, and they
would gladly do so. But that is not generally the case anymore.
We will test any coils or condensers at no charge, either if you bring
them in or mail them to us.
This being the case,
it is best to just replace the points and condensers if they are
available. They can usually be found for most outboards built after
WWII. If your motor is older than this, or you cannot locate
the parts, you can usually get by with taking the points out and
polishing the contacts with superfine emerycloth, cleaning them well
and reinstalling them. There is no way to tell if a condenser is any
good by looking at it, and a weak condenser will prevent you from getting
a good spark. In most cases, it is enough to locate a new condenser
that is similar in design, as long as you can make it fit. It is
sometimes obvious if your coils are bad. If the outer casing is
cracked, as is common on older Johnsons and Evinrudes and some others,
replace them. If the coils look OK, test for spark as
discussed in an earlier issue, and if you get a nice strong spark on your
spark tester, the coils are probably OK.
One consideration is
what your plans are for the motor. If you are intending to get the
motor running and put it on a boat and use it, I would recommend
installing new coils if you can get them, regardless of what the old
ones look like. From our experience in the shop, good used
coils may put out a spark of around 5-10 KV, which is enough to
run the motor, but new coils will put out a spark in excess of 20 KV,
which will make a big difference in how the motor starts and runs.
Next step is to set
the point gap. Most outboards call for a gap of .020".
Turn the crankshaft until the points are at their maximum opening, and set
them. Then turn the crankshaft 180 degrees and set the other.
On some outboards, especially the 10 HP Johnson and Evinrude, it is
easier to set the points with the flywheel on, utilizing the hole in the
top of the flywheel.
Hopefully, everyone
now has a good spark to the spark plug, which is the most important
element of getting an old outboard to run. If you have a newer
outboard without points and condensers, call for servicing information. If
you have specific questions, email me. Next month we will move to
the carburetor.
NEW PARTS
We
have aquired a limited supply of Tillitson carb parts for the West Bend
outboards. These parts include carb gaskets kits and needle and seat
assemblies.
HISTORICAL INFO
Following is an
excerpt from a Mercury service bulletin dated August 12, 1950.
SUBJECT: Throttle Position KG-7
High speed operating
position of the spark lever is extremely important on the KG-7 Hurricane.
This adjustment will vary considerably, depending on the type and weight
of the boat being used. Those owners using Quicksilver lower units
on comparatively light hulls will affectively operate the engine with the
spark throttle at the extreme advance position.
When heavier type
boats with engines employing standard lower units are used, the extreme
advance position of the spark will cause preignition. This will
noticeably affect the performance of the engine causing it to slow down.
Advise all owners to
follow these instructions for correct operating position of spark lever.
1. Start motor and allow to warm up for
several minutes at slow speed.
2. Slowly advance spark lever to extreme
fast position.
3. From this position slowly return the
lever toward "slow" until the engine begins to lose speed.
4. Next advance the lever toward the
fast position approximately 1/4 to 1/2 inch. This will be the
correct full speed operating position. Mark this position on the
protector rim for future operating reference.
IMPORTANT
Never use more spark
advance than just what is needed to maintain maximum R.P.M.
This month's motor is Chris-Craft.
Chris-Craft outboards had a short but
interesting history. I will not get into that here, but production
of this popular motor came to an abrupt end in 1954, some say because they
bore too close a resemblance to Mercurys in certain ways.
Model
Name
HP
1949
J
Challenger
5.5
1950
J
Challenger
5.5
K
Commander
10
1951
J
Challenger
5.5
K
Commander
10
1952
J
Challenger
5.5
K
Commander
10
1953
J
Challenger
5.5
K
Commander
10
Next month Chrysler
Welcome to the April 2002 issue of Outboard
News, an electronic newsletter for the outboard enthusiast.
INDUSTRY NEWS
Mercury Marine
recently entered into a new era of technology by opening North America's
only pressurized lost foam foundry, which is located at Mercury's world
headquarters in Fond due Lac, WI.
The new Mercury
Castings' foundry features a proprietary pressurized technology that will
serve as a benchmark, not only for the casting industry, but also for the
boating industry.
Unlike earlier lost
foam casting processes, 150 psi of pressure is applied to the molten
aluminum after it has been poured. This new casting process allows
Mercury to produce highly complex components that have intricate internal
features and shapes that are not easily or efficiently created using
traditional die-casting methods.
Prior to this
technology, eight separate die castings were needed to produce a 60 HP
block. This new process uses only one cast, which is lighter, less
expensive, and also eliminates the need for several subsequent machining
operations.
Something new is on
the horizon. Something that has never before been seen on an
outboard motor. Thanks to those terrific new anti-pollution laws,
the outboard manufacturers are currently designing catalytic converters to
be installed on their engines.
The two largest
obstacles to overcome in adopting catalysts is keeping water from getting
in contact with them, and keeping the engine cool, both of which are the
subject of much testing by manufacturers and regulatory agencies.
For higher horsepower
engines, a catalyst could easily ad $1000 to the price of an engine, and
10-15 pounds weight.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
Now that spring has
finally arrived, I thought this would be an appropriate time to discuss
how to get your outboard ready for the season. Most outboards will
fall into one of two basic categories. The first is the outboard
that was used last season and then properly winterized and stored.
The second is the outboard that has been sitting in the barn or garage for
an untold number of years, unused and not winterized.
The first is easy.
Simply uncover the engine, check that the spark plugs are in tight, top
off the lower unit lube, charge the battery and fill the fuel tank
with fresh fuel. The engine should start right up and be ready to
use.
The second situation
is more difficult. First, get as much of the old fuel out of the
system as possible, and refill with fresh fuel. Next, install new
spark plugs. Next drain and fill the lower unit with lube.
Now, try to start it and hope for the best. If the engine starts and
stays running, let it run for a while to blow out the cobwebs. Check
for an adequate flow of cooling water out of the exhaust, and off you go,
feeling fortunate that things turned out as well as they did.
If the engine did not
start, or started but would not stay running, then it's time to get out
the tool box. For help on how to proceed next, see previous and future
issues of this newsletter.
NEW PARTS
Laing's Outboards has
acquired a large quantity of new old stock Scott-Atwater and McCulloch
parts. They include impellers, coils, points, condensers, powerhead
gasket sets, piston rings, lower unit seal kits and more. Some of
the parts are in large enough quantities that I am able to offer
significant quantity discounts. If you like to work on Scotts, now
is the time to stock up on parts. Remember; these parts are no
longer being manufactured anywhere, so when they are gone, that's it. If
you would like an inventory list and more info on prices and discounts,
let me know.
HISTORICAL INFO
25 years ago- April
1977: A mighty Mercury Black Max 1750 pulls a record 20 water skiers
around the lagoon at Sea World, Orlando. This feat broke the
previous record of 17 Australian skiers, pulled by a 200 HP OMC outboard.
This month's motor is
Chrysler. Chrysler is just one part of a long lineage of outboards.
It starts with the Kissel Motor Car Co. back in the 1930's, which made
small outboards, some of which were sold by Sears under the name
Waterwitch. After WWII, Kissel was taken over by West Bend Aluminum
Co., which continued to manufacture motors for Sears, calling them Elgin.
In the 1950's, West Bend started to sell motors under their own name, and
enjoyed much success, gaining a reputation as a manufacturer of high
quality products. In 1965, West Bend was purchased by the Chrysler
Corp. which continued to manufacture the engines. The Chrysler
engines were always good sellers, known as good running, basic,
uncomplicated engines. In the early 1980's, the Chrysler Corp was
undergoing many financial problems. Part of the financial bail-out plan of
Chrysler was that they sell their non-automotive assets. In 1984,
the marine division was sold to US Marine of the Brunswick Corp.
The engines continued as Force until the line was discontinued in 2000
due to their inability to meet upcoming anti-pollution regulations.
Chrysler made so many
models of engines, I cannot begin to list the individual model numbers
here. If you have specific questions about Chrysler or identifying a
model, send me an email. However I will go into more detail in future
issues about West Bend and some of private label engines they sold.
Next month Clinton
Welcome to the May 2002 issue of
outboard news, an electronic newsletter for the outboard enthusiast.
INDUSTRY NEWS
It is becoming
increasingly difficult to tell one motor from another without a scorecard.
Rumors are flying that Mercury will be marketing a 225 HP 4 stroke
outboard that will be made in Japan by Yamaha. Whether this indicates a
problem by Mercury in developing their own big 4 stroke engine, or if it
is just an interim measure while Mercury puts the finishing touches on
their own motor is hard to say, but the agreement actually calls for
Mercury to buy as many as 4000 full Yamaha Engines.
Mercury and Yamaha
have worked together on various projects in the past, with several joint
venture agreements dating back to 1972, under which one would provide a
specific component to the other. In some cases, Mercury would get engine
blocks only and then build up the powerheads; in other cases, Mercury
would provide the powerheads or cylinder heads with Mercury-built parts
and send them back to Yamaha.
When Bombardier took
over OMC, they agreed to continue OMC's supply agreement with Suzuki.
Many of the small Johnson 4-stroke engines will be made by Suzuki.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
This month we will
discuss lower units and lower unit lubricant, mainly as it applies to the
older motors.
In the old days, many
motors used grease in the lower unit. My preferred replacement for this is
a Lubriplate 105 lube. It is thinner than the old grease, but
thicker than the modern lube, and will not wash right out if your seals
are a little leaky.
Most motors built
after about 1950 will use a modern 90 weight outboard gear lube. One
of the most common questions we receive is: "can I use a 90 weight automotive
gear lube in my outboard motor?" The answer is NO. The
main difference between them is how they react to the presence of water.
Most lower units on older outboards leak a little bit, and some water in
the gear lube is almost inevitable. With an automotive gear lube, if
water is added to it, it will mix together and destroy the lubricating
properties of the gear lube. Outboard gear lube is specially
formulated to not mix with water. This is why when you pull out
the bottom drain screw on your lower unit, you sometimes see clear water
run out before the gear lube comes out. This is a sure sign of a
leak. If the gear lube is just discolored, don't jump to conclusions
and assume you have a problem with your seals. The best way to tell
for sure if you have a leak is to pressure test your unit.
First it is necessary
to remove the lower unit from your motor. Undo all the retaining
bolts and disconnect your shift linkage. The lower unit will then
slide out. Drain out all the lube. You can then take your unit
to your local outboard shop, and for a nominal fee they will pressurize
the unit for you, and spray soapy water around all the seals. If
there is a leak, you will see bubbles appear, much the same as testing a
tire for leaks. Don't forget to rotate the shafts and try to wobble
them back and forth to try to get them to leak. For the do-it-yourselfer,
you may want to consider buying a lower unit pressureizer. They are
inexpensive and very useful. For more information on them, see the
helpful products page on our website. Next month we will discuss how to
replace the leaky seals.
HISTORICAL
The following is from
a Mercury service bulletin dated May 25, 1950.
Subject: 1. Adjustment of KF-7 and KG-7
Multiple Disc
Clutch
2. Adjustment of KF-3 and KF-5 Multiple Disc
Clutch
Subject 1. The
proper torque pressure on the clutch plates of the KF-7 and KG-7 models is
set at the factory at 22-28 foot pounds. If the pressure required to
slip clutch is greater than 28 ft pounds, it will be necessary to remove
the prop nut and add additional steel shims located on prop shaft spline
shoulder. The reverse procedure is necessary if the torque pressures
are less than 22 ft pounds, that is, removing several steel shims.
Lock prop nut in position with locking tab washer when adjustment is
correct. Replace all graphite grease lost due to disassembly of
clutch.
Note: The
clutch on KF-7 engines with serial numbers beginning with 368274 have 14
thin fiber discs and 13 thin steel plates. Engines below this serial
number had 8 fiber and 7 steel plates which were of greater thickness.
Subject 2: The
proper torque pressure on the clutch plates of the KF-3 and KF-5 models is
set at the factory at 100-125 inch pounds when disks are wet. This
simulates actual operating conditions. If torque pressure is
below 100 inch pounds add one or more .010 shims(part #M-50-230)
directly above the locking tab washer. If necessary to reduce the
pressure, remove steel shim or slightly loosen prop nut if all shims have
been removed. Caution: Lock prop nut in position with locking tab
washer when adjustment is correct. Do not use graphite lubricant on
clutch plates. (KF-5 orKF-3).
This month's motor is
Clinton
model
starting serial number
HP
1955
29
2.5
29-R
2.5
49-R
4
59-R 5.5
61-RR
5.5
1956
30
2.5
30-R
2.5
50-R
4
60-R
5.5
62-RR
5.5
1957
J7
31000
5
1958
J7
5
1959
J9
15000
5
1960
J9
80000
5
1961
J9 80000
5
1962
J9
95000
5
1963
J9
10700
5
1964
J9 Clinton
0001
5
J9 Chief
0001
5
J9 Apache
0001
5
1965
J9 Clinton
5
J9 Chief
5
J9 Apache
5
J5 Clinton III
3
J5 Sprite 3
J5 Apache
5
1966
Peerless III
089665
3
Peerless V
089665
5
Chief J9
00281
5
Sprite
55330
3
1967
Peerless V
089665
5
Chief J9
00281
5
1968
J9-1000 Clinton
157122
5
J9-1105 Chief
157122
5
J9-1150 Peerless 157122
5
1969
AJ9 Clinton
200061
5
BJ9 Clinton
230000
3.5
AJ9 Chief
210000
5
BJ9 Chief
240000
3.5
AJ9 Peerless
220000
5
BJ9 Peerless
250000
5
1970
J-200
2
J-350
3.5
J-500
5
J-700
7
We will continue with Clinton next month.
Welcome to the June/July 2002 issue of
Outboard News, an electronic newsletter for the outboard enthusiast.
INDUSTRY NEWS
Dramatic changes in the outboard world
continue. The long and historic line of West Bend-Chrysler-Force
will officially come to an end in 2002. Mercury Marine, who produced
Force outboards and had continued to supply many West Bend and Chrysler
parts, has announced the they will no longer support these motors after
this year. That means that all Force dealerships will be dropped, and no
more parts will be produced. Mercury will totally disassociate themselves
from West Bend-Chrysler-Force.
What this means is
that anyone who owns one of these motors should start to stock up on
replacement parts while they are still available. The aftermarket
companies will continue to carry some parts like points and condensers,
fuel parts, gaskets and some impellers, but anything that is just made by
Mercury will be hard to find after the current stock is gone.
When asked why
Mercury will no longer support these engines, the Mercury representative
said "It's too expensive."
We are now down to
two American outboards: Mercury and Johnson/Evinrude. Which
will be the next to go?
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
This time of year,
our service department is deluged with phone calls asking for general
information on outboards. I thought it may be interesting to share some of
these questions.
By far, the most
common question we get is: "I forgot what the oil-gas mix is
for my motor. Can you tell me?"
The answer is usually 50-1. Most
outboards still being used today that require a gas-oil mix run fine on
50-1. The only exceptions are your older 1950's vintage motors
that still need a 25-1 mix.
Number two is:
"Why won't my motor start? It ran good last time I used it 10
years ago" The answer to this question is usually slightly
longer than the previous question. Are you using fresh gas? Or is
the gas 10 years old too? Try draining the carb and pump fresh gas into
it. Install new spark plugs, making sure you have the plug wires hooked up
properly. If it still doesn't start, you better bring it in to the
shop.
Number three is:
"My motor has a low speed miss. How can I fix it?" The
answer is usually that the carb is running too lean. Many people
test run their motors at home on a garden hose or in a bucket of water,
and adjust the carb for a good idle with no load on the motor, which will
often result in too lean a setting when under power. Try turning the
adjustment screw out about 1/4 turn.
Number four is:
"My motor stalls when I slow down to shift. What can I do about
it?" Well, everyone should know where their idle speed stop
screw is located. As throttle linkages become sloppy from age, the idle
speed needs to be reset periodically (Force motors are especially known
for this). Find your idle stop and raise your idle speed slightly.
This should correct the problem.
HISTORICAL
The following is from an old Mercury dealer
mailing dated August 19, 1955
MERCURY BOAT HOUSE
BULLETIN: A factual report
from the Mercury proving grounds.
Test no. 55-63
Make of boat:
Penn Yan
Built by: Penn
Yan Boat Co.
Boat type: Runabout
(Swift)
Net hull weight
235lbs
Length
12' 3"
Beam
58"
All tests are
conducted over an accurately measured
course, and certified
by a graduate engineer.
Gross weight
550lbs
Engine Mark 55
prop 48-23587
Transom height
Tilt Pin Hole
Speed
16.5 "
2
37.65 mph
16.5 "
3
38.95 mph
17.5 "
3
41.10 mph
This bulletin is
strictly for the people who are interested
in speed only, and to
show how a boat is set up for
speed. An addition
was built on the transom and two
metal braces were
installed to reinforce same.
In setting up a boat
for maximum speed, run the first test
with the engine way
in close to the transom; then move it
out one tilt pin hole
at a time until maximim performance
is reached.
Next start adding 1/4
" sticks (rev sticks) on top of the
transom until speed
starts dropping off or the prop starts
cavitating; when this
happens, lower the transom 1/4"
and the boat should
be set proper for top speed.
Welcome to the August-September 2002
issue of Outboard News, an electronic newsletter for the outboard
enthusiast.
INDUSTRY NEWS
There is a new
participant in the outboard motor marketplace. On July 19th, Briggs
and Stratton announced that after 100 years of cutting grass, they will start
powering boats. Briggs and Stratton is producing a 5 HP four cycle
outboard motor. It is a marinized version of one of its overhead
valve lawn and garden engines. The outboard will be air-cooled, have
a full gearshift and an above water exhaust. It will also meet all
the upcoming anti-pollution regulations. With a weight of 56 pounds, it is
comperable to the competition. One area it is not comparable in is
the price. With a suggested retail price of $729, it will cost about
half of what the competition costs. The outboard is now available
through the Briggs and Stratton lawn and garden network and will be in
mass retailers by Spring.
In our opinion, this
is a major achievement for the outboard industry. For many years
there has been a great need for a basic, inexpensive outboard as an
alternative to the expensive sophistication of today's motors. It is
interesting to note that Briggs and Stratton played a major role in the
early development of the outboard industry. More on that later.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
We previously
discussed how to pressure test your lower unit for leaks. We will
now begin to discuss how to reseal it.
The first step is to
gain access to the seals. This means taking apart the lower unit.
On newer or high horsepower motors I would suggest purchasing a service
manual to assist you. On older and smaller motors, this is usually
not necessary. On some motors, like many Mercurys, it is
not necessary to completely tear down the unit, but on many Johnsons and
Evinrudes it is. Whatever kind of motor you have, don't disassemble
any more than you need to.
As an example, say
you have an 18 HP Johnson from the 1960's. The first step is to
remove the impeller housing, impeller and plate. You can then pull
the driveshaft out of the unit. If this is where the leak is
located, you can replace the driveshaft seal and you are done. If you need
to keep going, turn the unit over and remove the six screws that hold the
lower housing. Then remove the shift pivot screw and separate the
housings. Then remove the prop shaft and gears and pull out the
shift rod. Degrease the parts and look for any other damage.
The shift rod seal is
a common source of leaks on these motors. You need a special tool to
change it. You can make the tool by taking a 5/16 diameter steel rod
about 12 inches long and turning down about one inch of it to 1/4 inch.
Insert the tool into the shift rod hole from the bottom, tap out the shift
rod bushing and replace the o-ring. Insert a new o-ring and carefully
press the bushing back in place. Remove the driveshaft and propshaft
seals from the housings. This is easily done with a seal
remover. This is a hooked shaped tool with a long handle. It can be
purchase through an auto parts store or our website. Press the new
seals in place. Then clean the mating surfaces of the lower unit
housings and the groove for the sealing strip. Install the shift rod
and prop shaft assembly. Place the sealing strip in the groove
holding it in place with some gasket cement. Spread a thin layer of cement
on the mating surface and around the piece that holds the propshaft seal.
Reassemble the housings and insert the shift pivot screw and you are done.
We usually let the unit sit for 24 hours before pressure testing it or
putting in lube, to allow the cement to harden.
Chrysler and West
Bend motors are similar to Johnson and Evinrude, but Mercurys do not
usually need to be torn down completely to reseal them. Next month
we will do a Mercury.
HISTORICAL
As we mentioned
earlier, Briggs and Stratton played an important role in the early days of
the outboard industry. In the 1920's, Evinrude Motor Co was
struggling. Its founder, Ole Evinrude had left the company earlier
and had now returned to form the ELTO Motor Co. Ole Evinrude
introduced many innovations to outboards, such as extensive use of cast
aluminum, and the ELTO Quad, which dominated the racing circuit.
Evinrude Motors could not keep up with ELTO and another newcomer, Johnson
Motors.
In 1928, Stephen F
Briggs of Briggs and Stratton surveyed the market and began to assemble a
corporate complex. He purchased Evinrude Motors, and then purchased
Lockwood motors. He finally convinced Ole and Bess Evinrude to sell,
and thus formed Outboard Motors Corp. with Ole Evinrude as
President. With the stock market crash of 1929, demand for outboards
fell dramatically. The Lockwood line was discontinued in 1930, and
Evinrude/ELTO struggled through the depression. The company returned
to profitability in 1934, and in 1935 Steve Briggs and Ralph
Evinrude purchased Johnson Motors to form the Outboard Motors Corp.
that continued for many years.
It is difficult to
guess what the outboard business would have been like had not Steve Briggs
entered the picture, but it is safe to assume OMC would never have
existed.
This month's motor is Commodore
Commodore motors were made for three years by
West Bend. I have been unable to determine if it was a private label
made for someone else, or simply a West Bend designation.
Model number
HP
1962
23201
2
73201
7.5
103201
10
183201
18
1963
23501
2
73001
7.5
104001
10
183001
18
1964
2320
2
7320
7.5
10320
10
18320 18
Next month Comanco
Welcome to the October 2002 issue of Outboard
News, an electronic newsletter for the outboard enthusiast.
INDUSTRY NEWS
Bombardier Motor Corp (BMC) is expanding the
Evinrude and Johnson lines for 2003. In the Evinrude line of
direct-fuel injected two strokes, BMC is broadening the offering with a
200 HP High Output outboard. This will come with a 20 inch shaft and
Lightening gearcase featuring a high performance nosecone and low water
intakes. It will compliment the 225 HO which was in the 2002 lineup.
The Evinrude 250 will be available in a 20 inch as well as a 25 inch shaft
version. What's more, new lower horsepower Evinrude models are in
the works, and we may see a mid 2003 introduction of these engines.
As before, the
Johnson line will include conventional, carbureted two-strokes and four
stroke outboards. New in the four stoke line are 90, 115 and 140 HP
models- all featuring electronic fuel injection and built by Suzuki.
In fact, all Johnson four strokes from 40 HP and up, are built by Suzuki.
Mercury Marine has
abandoned plans to relocate its Placida, Fla., engine testing facility to
a site on Florida's Blackwater River. Despite some big advantages to
the site, opposition from neighbors and months of back-and-forth with the
state Department of Environmental Protection caused Mercury to withdraw
its application.
Mercury was willing
to make concessions, but in the end it became apparent the conditions
would have made the operation "fairly inefficient".
Mercury has already
sold the Placida facility and is considering several other sites for
relocation.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
It's that time of year again. Time to
winterize your outboard motor. We went into this in detail in a
previous newsletter, but briefly, make sure there is no water in
your lower unit, and drain as much fuel from the fuel system as possible.
If you have gas in the tanks, add some stabilizer. These simple
steps will protect you motor from any damage from the winter weather.
Last month we resealed a lower unit on an 18
HP Johnson. Now suppose you have a 50 HP Mercury from the 60's
or 70's. This is a very common motor, and it is very common for the
lower units to be leaking. If you pressure tested your unit, you
know where it is leaking. If you did not pressure test, it is a safe
bet it is leaking from the driveshaft seal. This is usually the
first place to start leaking on a Merc. In the 60's and 70's,
Mercury used a lower quality steel on the driveshaft and it is common for
them to rust in the area of the seal. Remove the water pump assembly
including the lower pump housing. Place a rag around the driveshaft
above the driveshaft bearing to catch any dirt, and clean the shaft with
some emery cloth. With a new seal installed in the lower pump
housing, this will reduce the leakage around the driveshaft to a
negligable amount. If your shaft is badly corroded, the only
options are to replace the shaft or install a speedi-sleeve over the
corroded part. (Call or email for more info on speedi-sleeves).
If the shift rod or
prop shaft seals are leaking, these require special tools to replace
properly. This job might be better left to the repair shop. If you
really want to try it, contact me for further instructions.
If you have any service questions, let me know
and we will answer them in an upcoming newsletter.
HISTORICAL
Below are excerpts from Mercury Sales
Bulletins:
August 22, 1950
To All Dealers
Subject:
Grantland Rice Paramount Sports Film
A motion picture
short subject titled "OUTBOARD SHENANIGANS", is scheduled for
September-October release. It is one of the finest sports films ever made,
and it features MERCURY OUTBOARD MOTORS exclusively. The subject
matter is highly spectacular and will create a great deal of interest in
Mercury when the picture is shown.
July 2, 1957
To All Dealers
Subject: Rumor
Campaign by Mercury Competitors
During recent months
there seems to have been a concerted effort on the part of some of our
competitors, including OMC and Scott-Atwater to circulate damaging rumors
regarding Kiekhaefer Corporation, its products and, in some cases its
executives. One very prevelant rumor is the statement that
"Mercury is a racing engine and no good for anything else."
We therefore must ask
your cooperation in reporting promtly to us any such incidents.
Please include in your report the details of the incident, stating the
name of the person making any derogatory statements about our Company or
products, his Company and position, the time and place of the remarks and
names of any other persons present.
April 20,1949
To All Dealers
Subject: Model KF5 "Super
5" Price Change
The Kiekhaefer
Corporation has shown there to be a direct loss on each KF5 model
shipped. Obviously this cannot continue. We cannot make cost
reductions or compromises that would be reflected in Mercury
quality or performance. There is but one alternative, we must raise
the list price. On or after the 25th of April, 1949 the FOB
Cedarburg list price on the KF5 model will be $179.50.
This months motor will be Comanco.
Comanco has a confusing history. It is
related to the Milburn Cub, Continental, Commando and Husky. If
anyone knows the story, please send it in. Here is the
information we have.
Model
Number
HP
1956
Continental Sport
2.5
1957
Sport
1000
3
Sport Delux
1000
3
Commando 1000
3
Commando Delux 1000
3
Kit
K1000
3
Kit Delux
K1000
3
1958
Commando 302
8000
3
Commando 307 8000
3
Sport 300
8000
3
Sport 305
8000
3
Kit
K8000
3
1959
305
5900 2.5
300
2.5
Kit
2.5
Next month Corsair
Welcome to the November 2002 issue of Outboard
News, an electronic newsletter for the outboard enthusiast.
INDUSTRY NEWS
There is not much happening this time of year,
so we will skip ahead to the service department.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
Today a few thoughts
on the most misunderstood part of an older outboard motor: THE CARBURETOR.
Whenever a motor is not running properly, more often than not, people
automatically blame the carburetor. This is not necessarily the case.
First, test for compression, then spark, as we discussed in previous
issues. If both of these test OK, we can look at the carb.
First question to ask is: is the carb getting gas into it?
If your motor has a
gas tank on top, disconnect the fuel line going into the carb, put the end
of the hose into a container to catch the gas, and then open the fuel
shut off valve. You should have a steady flow of gas coming out the
hose. If all you get is a drip, or no gas at all, then most likely
the filter in the tank is plugged up. The filter is frequently
attached to the hose fitting on the bottom of the tank. Unscrew the
fitting, and the filter should come with it. If it is a wire mesh screen,
you can clean it. If it is a ceramic filter, many times there is
nothing you can do with it. In than case, remove the filter from the
fitting and install a small in-line filter in the hose from the tank to
the carb.
If your motor takes a
remote tank, hook up the gas line to the motor and squeeze the
primer bulb. Look carefully for any signs of leaks. If gas is leaking
out anywhere on your hose, that means that air could be leaking in.
Fix the hose as needed and squeeze again. If you listen carefully,
you can often hear the carb "drinking" the gas. If
you are sure there is gas in the carb, try to start the motor.
At this time, it may
be useful to review the proper use of the choke. Many people do not
choke the motor properly, which makes it hard to start.
Assuming you are starting a cold motor that you have not tried to
start recently, pull the choke
out all the way and advance the throttle to the neutral stop. Pull the
starter rope until you get a response from the motor. For the
next pull, push the choke in and pull the rope again. It will
probably start on this pull. Remember, you will not flood a cold
motor.
If your motor will
not start after about 10 pulls or about 10 seconds of cranking, pull out a
spark plug and see if there is any trace of gas on it. If it is dry, it is
time to open up the carburetor. Continued next month.
HISTORICAL
This month's motor is Corsair: In 1948
Scott-Atwater began producing a line of private-label outboards for the
Corsair Outboard Motor Co, of Minneapolis, MN. The outboards were
distributed by both Skelly Oil Co. and Pure Oil Co. The line was
dropped in 1957.
Model no.
Serial no. HP
1949
4921
49211001
4
4927 49271001
5
4923
49231001
7.5
1950
5020
50201001
3.6
5021
50211001
4
5027 50271001
5
5023
50231001
7.5
1951
5020
50201001
3.6
5021
50211001
4
5027
50271001
5
5023
50231001
7.5
5028 50281001
10
1952
5027
27251001
5
5023
23251001
7.5
5028
28251001
10
1953
2735
27351001
5
2335
23351001
7.5
2835
28351001
10
1954
2745
27451001
5
2345
23451001
7.5
2845
28451001
10
2945
29451001
16
1955
2755
27551001
5
2355
23551001
7.5
2855 28551001
10
2955
29551001 16
1956
2765
27651001
5
2365
23651001
7.5
2865
28651001
10
2665
26651001 30
Next month Elgin
Also, next month, will be the story of the
first outboard ever made. It is the story of the Waterman, made in
1905, as told by Mr. Cameron Waterman himself at a 1950 Mercury
dealer meeting.
Welcome to the December 2002 issue of Outboard
News, an electronic newsletter for the outboard enthusiast.
Season's Greetings and Happy Holidays from
Laing's Outboards. This month will be an abbreviated version of Outboard
News.
INDUSTRY NEWS
Not much happening this time of year. Next
month we will present some of the issues in the debate between 2-stroke
and 4-stroke outboards.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
Next month we will continue our discussion of
the carburetor.
HISTORICAL
This month we present in brief the story
of the first outboard made, the Waterman, as told by Mr. Cameron B.
Waterman himself at a Mercury Marine dealer meeting at the 1950 New York
Boat Show. (This presentation was arranged by Carl Kiekhaefer to debunk
the story of how Ole Evinrude invented the outboard motor).
In 1903, while a
student at Yale Law School, in New Haven, Connecticut, Cameron Waterman
undertook to clean and overhaul his motorcycle engine. Upon completion of
this task, he clamped the engine to a desk and ran it on lightning gas
from an overhead gas jet connected to the carburetor. The thought
occurred to him that here was a portable power plant that could be used to
propel a boat and end the task of rowing, so he immediately made sketches
of such a device and filed them away for future use.
In January of 1905,
after having graduated from Yale Law School and having returned to Detroit
to practice law, he showed his sketches to George C. Thrall who owned the
Taylor Boiler Company in Detroit. Thrall, also very tired of rowing,
agreed to work with Waterman in the development of the Outboard motor.
They purchase a
Curtis air cooled 3 horsepower motorcycle engine, rigged it up with the
necessary shafts and tested it in Mr. Waterman's backyard and then in
February, 1905, Mr. Waterman, accompanied by Mr. George Thrall and Mr.R.
McDougal Campan actually operated the engine on a boat in the Detroit
River.
Very much encouraged
by the results of their tests, they contracted with Caille Brothers
Company of Detroit to build 25 units and by early summer of 1906, had sold
24 of them in various parts of the United States.
In the winter of
1906-07, Waterman changed the design from air cooled to water cooled. In
the spring of 1907, they began advertising in several national magazines.
The outboard industry was well on its way when the 1908 season sported a
carburetor instead of a mixing valve, and in 1909 when the next competitor
entered the market, business increased considerably.
In December of 1916,
Mr. Waterman sold his company to the Arrow Motor and Machine Company, and
in 1917 was commissioned a Captain in the US Army. After serving in
Europe as Chief of Transportation of the Air Service, AEF, he was promoted
to Major, Air Service, US Army in 1919.
Mr Waterman is now
retired, enjoying the sunshine and fishing of Florida, his boat being
propelled by a quiet, smooth Mercury Super 5.
The theme of the 1950
dealer meetings was dispelling myths. The Ole Evinrude story was
myth no.1, effectively dispelled by Mr. Waterman. Carl Kiekhaefer also got
the press involved, as evidenced by a story in the New York Herald Tribune
by Red Smith entitled "The Outboard Heresy".
Myth no. 2 was that
sales for 1949 were down 40%.
Kiekhaefer reported that sales in fact were up
by 21%. The message to dealers was: "Don't let all the talk
about gear shifts scare you!"
Myth no. 3 was that a
large motor was required to water ski. Kiekhaefer showed that a
Mercury Super 5 will pull a skier along at a good clip.
Next month we will start on the Elgin
outboard. There is a lot to tell, so it may take several issues.
Welcome to the January
2003 issue of Outboard News, an electronic newsletter
for the outboard enthusiast.
INDUSTRY NEWS
The debate continues on the 2 stroke vs. 4
stroke issue. After initial gains in popularity for the 4 stroke
engines, the 2 strokes have been fighting back. The advantages of
a 4 stroke outboard have always been low pollution, quiet smoke free
operation, increased fuel economy and good low speed operating
characteristics. The new generation of 2 strokes though are quickly
catching up, and sometimes surpassing the 4 strokes, especially the new
V-6 direct fuel injection 2 strokes. In a recent boat test, a 25 foot
center console was powered by twin 225 HP outboards, one being a 4
stroke V-6, and the other being a DFI 2 stroke V-6. At wide open
throttle, both engines were propped to turn about 5500 RPM at a little
over 50 MPH. Then the boat was stopped and the 4 stroke was tilted out
of the water. The 2-stroke DFI was opened up and planed the boat
easily by itself, reaching a speed in the high 30's at about 4800 RPM.
The test was repeated with the 2 stroke out of the water and the 4
stroke pushing by itself. The 4 stroke could not plane the boat.
Then the two stroke was put back in the water and the 4 stroke was left
in the water but shut down. The 2 stroke again planed the boat easily
and still reached the high 30's, even while dragging the 4 stroke
through the water. That dramatically demonstrated the low-end
torque advantage of the two-stroke.
There is another
factor which will soon becoming into play. It has to do with the
horsepower ratings shown on U.S. Coast Guard required "Maximum
Capacity Plates" on the transom of outboard boats. The standards
were last updated in 1986, and since then the weight per HP has changed
dramatically, with the heavier 4 strokes on the market. The solution to
this problem will apparently be a maximum rating for HP, as well as a
maximum rating for engine weight. This means that a given boat
will be able to handle a higher horsepower 2 stroke outboard on the
transom than a 4 stroke. This will become most important with
smaller boats, which are more susceptible to changes in weight
distribution.
HISTORICAL
Have you ever wondered what it was like for
an outboard motor technician 50 years ago? Below are some
questions that a graduate of the Oliver Outboard Motor Service School
were expected to know the answers to. These are taken from an Oliver
Outboard service school manual from the 50's.
1. Why is a 2 cycle most common in
outboard motors manufactured in the USA?
2.What is the most common oil mix in modern
outboards?
3.Why is the correct gas-oil mix important?
4.What part requires the most lubrication in
an outboard motor?
5.How is the fuel pump operated on the
normal two-cycle outboard?
6.Stuck piston rings may be caused from what
reason?
True or False:
7. There is only one way to install a piston
in the cylinder.
8.A carburetor mixes the proper oil-fuel
ratio.
9.On the two cycle engine, the piston fires
every other time
it comes to top dead center.
10.An engine that will not start may be
caused by flooding.
Not very high tech, was it?
ELGIN MOTORS
Elgin was the brand name of outboards sold
by Sears. The name was first used in 1946, and was discontinued in 1963.
The early Elgins were made by West Bend.
Model number
HP
1946
571.58301
1.25
571.58401
2.5
571.58501
3.5
571.58601
5.5
1947
571.58521
3.5
571.58611
5.5
571.58621
5.5
1948
571.58701
6
571.58721
6
1949
571.58541
5
571.58731
7
1950
571.58301
1.25
571.58401
2.5
571.58531
5
571.58551
5
571.58741
7.5
571.58821
16
All Elgin motors made by West Bend had model
numbers beginning with 571. We will continue next month.
Welcome to the March
2003 issue of Outboard News, an electronic newsletter
for the outboard enthusiast.
INDUSTRY NEWS
There has been much
concern recently about how the current and upcoming anti-pollution
regulations will affect the owners of outboard motors. Woven deep
within the tangled legislation regarding marine emissions is some
heartwarming news for the consumer:
It's not your problem.
If you own a boat and don't understand some
or all of the regulations passed in recent years by the EPA or the
California Air Resources Board (CARB), you are not alone. Boat
owners across the nation are struggling to interpret and predict the
impact of the emissions standards that affect the boating industry.
But take heart. It's neither as bad nor confusing as it first appears.
In a nutshell, here's the important news:
* You will
not have to stop using your two stroke engine
due
to engine emission regulations.
* The engine
manufacturers- not the consumer- are
responsible for ensuring the engines you buy conform
to EPA and CARB regulations.
* If you
currently own a boat engine, you will not be
penalized by existing legislation as tighter regulations
take effect.
CARB rates all marine engines on a four star
system. One star ranks an engine as "low emissions", two stars
is "very low", three starts is "ultra low", and four
stars is "super ultra low". No engines have been built
yet that meet the four star requirements.
As of January 1, 2003 all outboard, inboard,
and sterndrive engines that are sold in California must be CARB
certified and must bear star-rating decals. Observers will note
that not all the low emission engines are four stroke. The Mercury
75, 90, 115 and 135 OptiMax two stroke engines meet the CARB three star
emissions level.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
Now that spring is arriving, many boaters
will soon be pulling their boat out of storage, and some will be asking
themselves: Can I get another year out of my old battery, or must
I break down and buy a new one? Below are seven myths about
batteries that may help answer that question.
Myth #1: Storing a battery on a
concrete floor will cause it to discharge. This may
have been true years ago when battery cases were made out of a porous
material, but not today.
Myth #2: A battery will not
explode. A battery may explode through the ignition of
hydrogen and oxygen gases produced when charging, or may explode
internally, so always use caution when near the battery.
Myth # 3 A battery will not lose
its charge sitting in storage.
Batteries have a natural discharge or
internal electrochemical leakage rate of between 1% and 25% per month,
hastened by high temperatures.
Myth #4 Maintenance-free batteries
never require maintenance. All batteries require
maintenance. Electrolyte can be lost due to high temperatures and
excessive charging.
Myth #5 Pulse chargers or
additives will revive sulfated batteries. There is
no conclusive evidence that pulse chargers or additives will provide any
benefit.
Myth #6 Lead acid batteries have a
memory. However, continuous undercharging will lower battery
capacity, while deep discharges can shorten battery life.
Myth #7 Cells in lead acid
batteries will not reverse polarity.
Cell reversal typically occurs when a cell
has completely discharged while current is still flowing through the
battery.
HISTORICAL INFO
The following is from an Evinrude dealer
mailing from 1956. Author unknown.
ODE TO AN OUTBOARD PARTS CLERK
I work behind the counter
In an outboard parts store;
Sometimes I'm called a genius,
Sometimes I'm called more.
I claim I'm no technician,
Yet when a job goes sick,
Some guys mail and ask me
What makes the darn thing tick.
I'm supposed to know the numbers
Of bolts and nuts and screws,
For every single motor made
In the last forty years.
But life would be a pleasure
and I'd grin from ear to ear,
If customers would only tell me
The Model, Make and Year
ELGIN
We will continue listing model numbers for
Elgin outboards. These Elgins were made by West Bend, as
designated by the prefix 571.
Model number HP
1951
571.58301 1.25
571.58401 2.5
571.58561
5
571.58641
6
571.58751
7.5
571.58821
16
571.58841 16
1952
571.58201
2
571.58561
5
571.58751
7.5
571.58822
16
1953
571.58202
2
571.58562
5
571.58761
7.5
571.58823
16
571.58824
16
571.58844
16
1954
571.58211
2
571.58571
5
571.58651
6
571.58652
6
571.58771
7.5
571.58772 7.5
571.58851
16
1955
571.58211
2
571.58571
5
571.58711
7.5
571.58722
7.5
571.58901
12
571.59401
25
Next month we will continue with Elgin
Welcome to the April
2003 issue of Outboard News, an electronic newsletter
for the outboard enthusiast.
INDUSTRY NEWS
There's good news to report on retail boat
sales. Final figures confirm that the fourth quarter of 2002 was a
strong one for dealers after a succession of negative ones. Fiberglass
boat sales rose by 4.9% in the fourth quarter, and aluminum boats had
strong sales as well. Here are the top leaders in aluminum boat sales
for 2002:
Make
Units Sold
Market Share
Tracker
16,824
13.5
Lund 10,014
8.1
Alumacraft
9,255
7.4
Lowe
9,245
7.4
Crestliner
7,903
6.4
Smokercraft
4,749
3.8
Godfrey
4,695
3.8
Bennington
4,040
3.3
G3
3,872
3.1
Fisher
3,655
2.9
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
A few issues back,
we started discussing the carburetor. We will now continue with
the subject. We previously determined whether or not the carb was
the reason your motor would not run, and now we will learn how to
correct the problem.
The most important
thing to keep in mind when attacking carburetor problems, is that in
most cases, carburetors do not go bad, they just get dirty. Many
outboard motors sit idle for long periods of time, often for years at a
time. Any gas left in the system will turn to varnish and gum up the
system. Another common problem is rust particles in the carb,
caused by using a rusty gas tank.
Step one is to go
to your local marine dealer and purchase a carburetor rebuilding kit.
Then remove the carb from the motor, making a note of how the linkages
are attached. Next, using a clean uncluttered workbench, take apart the
carb starting with separating the bowl from the main body of the
carburetor. You will most likely smell the stale gas, and see the
residue in the bottom of the bowl. Since the high speed jet is
usually located at the bottom of the bowl, you can see how this residue
can easily affect the operation of the outboard. Remove the float and
the inlet needle and seat. Remove the high and low speed needles,
as well as old packings and any plastic or rubber parts. You need to
then soak the parts in carburetor cleaner. Don't use the stuff in
the spray can or lacquer thinner. They will not dissolve the
varnish. Go to the local auto parts store and purchase a gallon of
the cleaner that is meant for immersing the carb in. Follow the
instructions on the can, as well as taking necessary safety precautions.
After soaking the carb parts long enough to dissolve any residue, rinse
the parts with solvent and blow out with compressed air. Then reassemble
according to the instructions in the carburetor rebuilding kit.
Install the carb on the motor. Next month we will talk about how
to adjust the carburetor and linkages.
HISTORICAL
The
first Mercury outboard debuted in 1939, claiming many industry firsts.
According to a 1939 dealer newsletter, among these firsts were:
*Full-feathered automatically-stable
steering.
*One-piece driveshaft housing enclosing
exhaust passage,
water line and driveshaft.
*Streamlined engine cowlings.
*Vacuum exhaust system.
*External reed valves with T-shaped
manifolds
Continuing with 1947 firsts:
*Splash deflector on driveshaft housing.
*"Uni-Cast" one-piece gearcase.
*One-piece die-cast twin cylinder block with
integral water
jacket, cylinder head, intake manifold
and exhaust manifold.
*Forged aluminum pistons.
1951 Firsts:
*Multiple disc slip clutch propeller.
*Single-line suction type remote fuel supply
system.
*Four-cylinder, alternate firing, two-cycle
engine
*Built-in synchronized remote throttle
control.
I'm sure many people could dispute these
industry "firsts". One that comes to mind is the 1950 16
HP Scott, which had a single-line suction remote fuel system.
ELGIN
We will finish with the West Bend Elgins.
Last month we covered through 1955
Model number
HP
1956
571.5821
2
571.5950
5.5
571.5970
7.5
571.5890
12
571.5960 25
1957
571.58221
2
571.58781
7.5
571.59521
5.5
571.59721
7.5
571.58941
12
571.58951
12
571.59421
30
571.59431
30
571.59621S
30
571.50631L
30
571.59801G
30
571.59811GL
30
1958
571.5823
2
571.5953
5.5
571.5973
7.5
571.5878
7.5
571.5893
12
571.5896
12
571.5897L
12
571.5944 35
571.5945L
35
571.5982 35
571.5983L
35
571.5990
35
571.5991L
35
1959
571.5824
2
571.5954
5.5
571.5879 7.5
571.5974
7.5
571.5880
12
571.5898
12
571.5899
12
571.5944 35
571.5945L
35
571.5982 35
571.5983L
35
571.5990
35
571.5991L 35
Beginning in 1960, Elgins were mostly made
by Scott. We will cover the Scott Elgins next month.
Welcome to the Summer
2003 issue of Outboard News, an electronic newsletter for
the outboard enthusiast.
INDUSTRY NEWS
Bombardier Corporation, the Canadian
transportation giant and the current owners of Johnson and Evinrude, has
decided to place their Recreation Products Division up for sale. The
division includes Johnson and Evinrude outboard motors, Ski-Doo personal
watercraft and Ski-Doo snowmobiles.
Unlike the situation
in 2000, prior to the bankruptcy of OMC, the Bombardier Recreational
Products Division was profitable through the 12 month period that ended
last June 31, according to Bombardier Inc. That is in contest to
Bombardier's aerospace operations, which have been struggling since Sept.
11, 2001. The recreational products division was put up for sale to
raise cash to allow the parent company to endure the aerospace industry's
current difficulties.
Two companies rumored
to be interested in purchasing Bombardier Recreational Products are
Harley-Davidson and Deere & Co.
Mercury Marine is celebrating its 65th
anniversary this year, and to commemorate the event, Mercury has produced
a limited edition 200 HP EFI engine sporting a vintage 1968 graphics
package. The engine has the same look as a 1968 65 HP Mercury. This
is a limited chance to own a piece of Mercury history.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
In the last issue, we discussed rebuilding the
carburetor, now, we will adjust it and set the synchronization. The
synchronization refers to the relationship between the carburetor
butterfly opening and the spark advance. If this is not set right,
the motor can be hard starting or have a poor idle. If it is way
off, it can prevent the motor from idling at all. To set the
synchronization, look for a mark scribed into the cam attached to the
bottom of the mag plate. On most motors, this mark needs to line up with
the center of the linkage arm or roller which opens the carburetor
butterfly when the butterfly first begins to open. in other words,
advance the throttle and watch for the point at which the butterfly begins
to open. This point should be when the mark is lined up with the
roller. Adjust linkages as needed, or on some motors, move the cam in or
out on the mag plate. If the butterfly opens too late, it can cause
hard starting. If it opens too early, the motor will pop and miss
and low speeds, similar to a too lean condition. This applies to
almost all motors, new or old, large or small. Next month-adjusting
the carburetor.
HISTORICAL
Here are a few items from the Mercury
archives.
In 1940, the first
Mercury branded outboards were introduced. The lineup included five
models- three singles and two twins- with retail prices that ranged from
$42.95 to $98.50. The new line of outboards were named after the
Roman god of speed, Mercury.
E.C. Kiekhaefer began
his business in a plant in Cedarburg, Wis. in 1939. It wasn't until
1946 that operations moved to the current location in Fond Du Lac, when
Kiekhaefer purchased Corium Farms. Even after the expansion, grain
elevators were used for engine test cells.
During the summer of
1961, Ann Strang- the mother of Mercury executive Charlie Strang- visited
her son and a team of engineers at a research lab in Oshkosh, Wis.
Her son explained their efforts to make the new 100 HP outboard appear
smaller and more compact in size. Ann's observation and suggestion
forever changed the face of Mercury outboards. She stated
"Well, a large woman always wears a black dress. Why don't you
paint it black?" The group concurred. In Charlie's own words
"We painted one black and it shrunk about 20 percent!" It
was in the fall of that same year, as a 1962 model, the first black
Mercury and the industry's first 100 HP outboard motor came off the line.
Who would have thought it started with a black dress?
We will continue to talk about Elgin
outboards. Elgins were sold by Sears, and were made by different
manufacturers throughout the years. They were one of the most
commonly seen motors in their day, and still continue to appear
frequently. From 1946 to 1959, most Elgins were made by West Bend.
From 1960 until 1963, when Sears stopped using the Elgin name, they were
made by Scott-McCulloch. It is interesting to note that to avoid direct
competition with their own line of popular outboards, the Elgins were
usually one model year behind the Scotts. In other words for example
a 1961 Elgin would have the same features as a 1960 Scott. The Scott
Elgins are easy to identify the year of manufacture. The first two
digits of the serial number designate the year. Here is a rundown of model
numbers.
Model no.
HP
1960
571.58241
2
574.60000 3.6
574.60070 7.5
574.60120 12
574.60290 25
574.60310 25
574.60440 40
574.60460 40
574.60620 60
1961
574.6001
3.6
574.6008
7.5
574.6013
14.1
574.6033
27.7
574.6035
27.7
574.6050
43.7
574.6070
75.2
1962
571.5833
2
574.6001
3.6
574.6005 6
574.6008
7.5
574.6013 14.1
574.6033 27.7
574.6035 27.7
574.6052 43.7
574.6072 75.2
1963
571.58250 2
574.60020 3.5
574.60060 6
574.60090 7.5
574.60140 14.1
574.60340 28
574.60360 28
574.60540 45
574.60550 45
574.60740 75
574.60750 75
If you were paying attention, you noticed that
the 2 HP Elgin was made by West Bent instead of Scott. You can tell
by the 571 prefix in the model number. All Scott made Elgins began
with the prefix 574. Also, some Elgins that were sold in Canada in
the 1960's were made by West Bend, but I don't have a number listing of
those. We will continue with the Sears motors after 1963 at a later
date. Next month Eska, which also ties in with Sears.
Welcome to the October
2003 issue of Outboard
News, an electronic newsletter for the outboard enthusiast.
INDUSTRY NEWS
At this years Miami Boat Show, Bombardier
introduced their new line of 2 and 3 cylinder DFI engines, covering the
range from 40 to 90 HP. The 40, 50, and 60 HP models were two
cylinders, and the 75 and 90 HP models had three. This leaves only a
small fraction of the outboard engine market not covered by both four
strokes and DFI two-strokes.
These engines have
completely new injection and electronic systems, and are microprocessor
controlled in all their vital functions. The electronically
controlled oiling system, while still injecting and consuming oil as two
strokes do, uses about half the oil per horsepower than the larger DFI two
strokes. Also, the engines are said to be maintenance free for three
years, which is the length of the warranty period. The integral oil
tanks hold enough oil for one full "normal" operating season,
and the engines require no winterization. The engines also weigh
considerably less than a comperable four stroke.
Millers Boating Center recently decided to
hold their own 2 stroke vs 4 stroke fuel economy test. A new 225 HP
Mercury OptiMax and a new 225 HP Mercury FourStroke were started at the
same time and were supplied with exactly one gallon of fuel. Both
were allowed to run at the factory set idle speed until they ran out of
fuel. Which do you think ran longer? At 95 minutes the 225
FourStroke exhausted its fuel supply. The OptiMax continued to run
for an additional 62 minutes. This demonstrates that the 2 stroke
delivers greater economy at trolling speeds than the 4 stroke.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
Now that you have rebuilt the carburetor,
installed it on the motor and set the synchronization, it's time to
start the motor and adjust the carburetor. To do a proper job of
adjusting, the motor should be on the boat and under way, or at least in a
large enough test tank to put the motor in gear and rev it up all the way.
It is meaningless to adjust the carb with the engine in neutral, or with
the motor on earmuffs. There must be a load on the motor.
After you start the
motor, let it warm up for a few minutes, then put it in gear and rev it up
all the way. If the motor has an adjustable high speed, slowly turn the
mixture screw in (clockwise) until the engine begins to die from
running too lean, then back it out 1/4 turn and tighten the packings to
stop it from moving from vibration. If the motor has a fixed high
speed, as most newer motors do, rev it up anyway to be sure the high speed
jets are open.
Slow the engine down
to an idle speed, and slowly turn the low speed adjustment in (clockwise)
until the engine begins to pop and miss from running too lean. Then
back it out from 1/4 to 1/2 turn and tighten the packings. You may
have to fine tune the low speed adjustment at a later time, because it can
vary with weather conditions and usage. Reinstall any knobs on the mixture
screws.
Next month- How to winterize your outboard.
HISTORICAL
In 1958, Mercury produced the world's first
6-in-line outboard. Mercury was very proud of this powerplant, and
rightly so. The following paragraph is from a 1958 sales brochure:
"Behind the Mercury 6-in-line design are
tens of thousands of Kiekhaefer engines- V-fours, opposed fours, radial
engines, big bore twins, V-twins...designed, built and tested by
Kiekhaefer since 1939 to prove the best design for Mercury multi-cylinder
high horsepower outboards. Kiekhaefer found that only the in-line
engine was compact enough, smooth enough, quiet enough and efficient
enough to deliver all the benefits the public wanted in big
outboards."
This was all well and good, but as many know,
the biggest reason many of these engines made a quick trip to the boneyard
was the fact that they had no gearshift, and gained the nickname
"dockbusters". The following paragraph describes the high
opinion Mercury had of this design:
"SO FAR AHEAD NO CHALLENGERS ARE IN
SIGHT! With all its mighty power and astonishing performance the
Mark 75 is so simple to control that a child can safely handle it. A
single control lever does the work...just push the button to start,
push forward to go ahead, pull back to reverse--action so fast, so easy,
so foolproof you can actually rock the boat back and forth! The Mark 75 is
direct-reversing, simply by changing the direction of crankshaft
rotation-- no gear-shifting, no bulky lower unit gears, no excess
weight...another terrific Mercury first!"
Easier said than done. This motor
represented a striking contrast between great engineering on the top end,
and terrible decision making on the bottom end.
This month we will cover ESKA outboards. Eska
began selling its first outboard in 1960, borrowing many designs from
Clinton outboards. They were about as simple as an outboard could
be, and served as a good, inexpensive way for many people to give up their
oars and become powerboaters. Eska took a two-cycle, single cylinder
air cooled powerhead built by Tecumseh and attached it to a Clinton
lower unit. They remained pretty much unchanged until 1973, when
Eska introduced a two cylinder water cooled outboard producing 9.9 and 15
HP. This continued until 1987 when Eska went out of business.
Eska supplied motors to many companies such as Sears, Pennys, Grants and
others. Parts are still fairly easy to get, mainly due to the large
volume of motors produced. I don't have any model number info prior
to 1965.
Model
HP
1965
1147
3
1140, 1144
4
1142, 1145, 1148
5
1141, 1146
6
1966
1153
3
1157, 1159
6
1967
1160, 1161, 1163, 1173 3
1162, 1164, 1165 5
1166, 1169, 1175
5
1167, 1168, 1170, 1174
7
1968
1183,1193
3
1178,1180, 1185, 1195
5
1179, 1181, 1187, 1197 7
1969
1188, 1703, 1713
3.5
1700, 1703A, 1709, 1713A 3.5
1189, 1194, 1710, 1705, 1715, 1701, 1706
5
1186, 1199, 1702, 1707, 1717, 1708, 1711
7
1970
1188B, 1703B, 1704B, 1709B,1713B, 1732B
3.5
1189B, 1701B, 1733B, 1705B, 1706B, 1733B
5
1199B, 1702B, 1707B, 1708B, 1717B, 1734B
7
1971
1703B, 1713B
3.5
1705B, 1715B
5
1707B, 1717B
7
1727A, 1747A
7
1972
1703D, 1788A 3.5
1705D, 1789A
5
1747B, 1790A 7
1973
1945A
3.5
1705E
5
1928
5
1747C
7
1944
7.5
1925A
9.5
1926A
14
1974
1945B
3.5
1705F
5
1928B
5
1747D
7
1944B
7.5
1925B 9.5
1926B
14
1975
1974A
4.5
1975A
5.5
1944C
7.5
1976A
7.5
1978A
9.9
1979A
15
Next month we will continue with Eska.
Welcome to the November
2003 issue of Outboard News, an electronic newsletter for
the outboard enthusiast.
INDUSTRY NEWS
Canada's Bombardier
Corp. announced that it reached an agreement to sell its Recreational
Products Division to an investor group including descendants of company
founder Joseph-Armand Bombardier.
The sale of the
division to the family was the outcome predicted by many in the boating
industry since Bombardier's intention to sell the division was announced.
The price tag on the
recreational products division, which includes the Johnson and Evinrude
assembly plant in Wisconsin was about $875 million U.S.
The announcement of the
transaction was good for the industry because, once finalized, it will end
the uncertainty about the long term future for the major outboard engine
manufacturer which existed since the bankruptcy filing by OMC in 2000.
Mercury Marine says
nothing has been decided yet, but it is considering building some of its
outboard models in China. The possibility of such a production shift,
which the company says has been openly discussed for about 2 years, has
raised concerns among Mercury's union employees in its hometown of Fond due
Lac, Wis.
Company officials said
the 60 HP and under engines will probably be moving to China within the next
three years. Officials cite low production costs and the potential in
the Chinese marketplace as reasons for the move.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
This months service topic will be winterizing.
Fortunately, winterizing an outboard is easy with a few basic supplies. The
most important thing is to drain the lube out of the lower unit, in case
there is any water in it. Water in a gearcase can freeze and crack the
housing, and ruin the shafts and bearings. If there is more than a few
drops of water in the unit, you probably have a leaking seal. Winter
is a good time to reseal your lower unit.
To drain the lube,
remove both the drain and fill plugs in the lower unit, and let all the old
lube run out. To refill, you can buy new lube in plastic squeeze tubes
(messy way), or in quart bottles and use a hand pump (easy way). Either way,
fill through the bottom drain hole until it runs out the upper (vent) hole.
Then install the vent plug, remove the squeeze tube or hand pump and install
the drain plug.
The next step is to add
stabilizer to the remaining gas in the tank, to prevent the gas from
deteriorating over the winter. If possible, run the stabilized gas
through the motor. Then disconnect the gas line from the front of the engine and
let the gas burn out until the engine stops. You may also spray some fogging
solution into the carb while running out the gas.
That's all there is to
winterizing your outboard. While the motor is in a vertical position,
all the water will run out of the cooling system. The motor can then
be stored outside on the boat with no damage.
HISTORICAL
We will continue with Eska model numbers
Model
HP
1976
1973B
3
1974B
4.5
1975B
5.5
1944D
7.5
1976B
7.5
1978C
9.9
1979C
15
1977
14058
1.2
14089
2.5
14034 3.5
14035 5
14036
5
14037
7.5
14038
7.5
14059
7.5
14039
9.9
14040
15
1978
14058
1.2
14110
1.5
14089
2.5
14034
3.5
14035
5
14106
5
14107 7.5
14108 7.5
14109 9.9
1979
14058 1.2
14089
2.5
14034
3.5
14035
5
14106
5
14107
7.5
14108
7.5
14109
9.9
14110
15
1980
14139
3.5
14140
5
14141
7.5
14152 9.9
14153 15
The models and model numbers remain basically
unchanged until production is discontinued in 1987. The years are
determined by serial numbers, which is too cumbersome to print here.
If you need more information, call.
A good source for parts for Eska products is
Certified Parts Corp. at 1-800-356-0777.
Next month Hiawatha.
Welcome to the December
2003 issue of Outboard News, an electronic newsletter for
the outboard enthusiast.
INDUSTRY NEWS
The first new Evinrude
outboards with Bombardier's own E-Tec engine technology came off the
assembly line Oct. 23 in Sturtevant, Wis.
The E-Tec engine is the
first outboard engine developed by Bombardier since it bought the Johnson
and Evinrude brands out of the OMC bankruptcy in early 2001. The first
horsepower offerings include 40, 50, 75 and 90. A 60 HP engine is
scheduled for release in late 2004 or early 2005. The higher ratings
of 200, 225, and 250 are slated for fall 2004, followed by a 115, 130, and
175.
Bombardier says E-Tec
is far less polluting than other engine types, partly because no unburned
fuel escapes the cylinder during the combustion process. Fuel that is
burned completely produces very low emissions, and the engine reportedly
creates 80 percent less carbon monoxide than a 4-stroke engine.
Early reports from the
field indicate that the E-Tec technology is everything Bombardier claims,
and it is bound to help Bombardier reclaim some of the market share lost as
a result of OMC's problems. More on E-Tec in future issues.
We now have in stock Peter Hunn's new book The
Classic Outboard Motor Handbook. This is a 127 page book covering
topics such as: Buying Advice, Systems Explanation, Setting up a Home
Shop, Diagnosis and Disassembly, Case Studies, Maintenance Storage and Use.
This an entertaining and well written book by an acknowledged expert in the
field. Price is $21.95.
HISTORICAL
This month we will begin Hiawatha outboards.
There were two distinct Hiawathas. Montgomery Ward's first private
label outboard was the rudder-steered Hiawatha. This was a
forward-pointing, single cylinder rowboat motor developing 1.25 HP. The
motor was made by Caille.
In 1941, Gambles Department Store began selling
Hiawatha motors. These were a private label motor made by OMC's Gale
division. Beginning in 1956, they were made by Scott until the motors
stopped being sold after 1961.
Here are the numbers for the Gale made Hiawathas
Model number
HP Years
25-3258
3 1945-46
25-7955
3 1947
25-7956
3 1947-48
25-7970
5 1947
25-7971
5 1947-48
25-DL
2.5 1941-42
25-S
2.5 1941-42
47-3S
3 1947
50-DL
5 1941-42
50-DLA
5
1945-46
50-S
5
1941-42
50-SA
5 1945-46
050MI-25-7958A 3
1945-50
150MI-25-7959A 3 1951
150MI-25-7973A 5 1951
150MI-25-7981A 12
1951
250MI-25-7973A
5 1952
250MI-25-7981A 12
1952
350MI-25-7959B
3 1953
350MI-25-7959C 3
1953
350MI-25-7972B 5
1953
350MI-25-7973B 5 1953
350MI-25-7981B 12 1953
450MI-25-7959A
3
1954
450MI-25-7973A 5
1954
450MI-25-7982
12
1954
550MI-25-7959A
3
1955
550MI-25-7982A
12
1955
840MI-25-7945A 1.5
1948-49
840MI-25-7957A
3
1948-49
840MI-25-7972A
5
1948
840MI-25-7980A
12 1948
940MI-25-7972A
5
1949-50
940MI-25-7980A 12
1949-50
Next month we will cover the Hiawathas made by
Scott.
Welcome to the January
2004 issue of Outboard News, an electronic newsletter for
the outboard enthusiast.
INDUSTRY NEWS
The
new Evinrude E-Tec engines continue to attract attention at winter boat
shows. It appears these engines will set the standard for outboard
motor design for years to come. E-Tecs are designed to start with the
first revolution of the crankshaft, and during design work, they were judged
to be too quiet, and had to be reworked to give them a distinct
sound. While some may be inclined to describe E-Tec as simply the
latest generation of Evinrude's Ficht technology, the fact is, the Ficht and
E-Tec systems use completely different approaches to the same challenge.
The only common denominator is that both use electromotive force to
introduce fuel to the combustion chamber. When energized, an
electromagnet in the Ficht injector hammers a steel core against the fuel,
driving it through the injector nozzle. The basic operation is similar to
how your truck's starter solenoid works. By comparison, an E-Tec injector
functions much like a speaker voice coil operating in a permanent magnetic
field. Strong magnets surround the coil and, when the coil is
energized, sufficient force is developed to push fuel through the nozzle.
Evinrude says that
E-Tec develops higher injection pressures than Ficht (650 vs. 500), and that
the E-Tec coil can move faster than the Ficht solenoid, resulting in better
fuel atomization and more precise fuel control. And because polarity
can be reversed-thus pulling the coil back- the injector can operate at 9000
to 10,000 rpm and still deliver plenty of fuel. This bodes well for
the system's application in high horsepower, high output engines.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
Modern outboard motors,
both 2 cycle and 4 cycle, are vastly superior to their predecessors from
back in the 1960's in terms of pollution, fuel economy, noise and overall
sophistication. Back in the 60's, large outboards consumed an enormous
amount of fuel, mainly due to the fact that all the unburned gas that
condensed in the crankcase was dumped overboard, instead of being recycled.
In the old days, your boating activities were often determined by how much
gas you could carry aboard.
Apparently, some
ingenious person decided to do something about it. I will quote from a
letter sent to the president of the Goggi Corporation in praise of their
remarkable new invention.
"In the
Philadelphia Sunday Bulletin dated July 2, 1967, I read an article in the
Better Boating section on your device that drains
unburned fuel and
recycles same, The Goggi Kleen-Zaust. After preliminary arrangements,
it was determined to have the
Goggi Kleen-Zaust
installed on my outboard. Before the Goggi Kleen-Zaust was installed,
we took a 15 minute run south on
the lake with a full
tank of gas at cruising speed. We then reversed direction and made a
15 minute run north on the lake. For
this 30 minute run,
which was timed to the second, we used exactly 2.9 gallons of gas.
After installation of the Goggi
Kleen-Zaust we made the
identical run under identical conditions and used exactly 1.4 gallons of
gas. This produced a fuel
savings of better than
50%. In addition to this savings in gas, the smoke in the air as well as the
oil slick in the water was
eliminated. I
have nothing but praise for the Goggi Kleen-Zaust and it is certainly a must
for all owners of outboard motors,
both from the
standpoint of tremendous fuel savings, and the total elimination of all air
and water pollution."
What was this device
called the Goggi Kleen-Zaust? I have never seen one or heard of it
before. You would think a revolutionary
invention such as this would have been very
successful. If anyone has any information on it, I would be interested in
seeing it.
HISTORICAL
Here are a couple of
trivia items for fans of the old Scott-McCulloch outboards. First, did
Scott ever make and sell a 50 HP outboard? I have heard of one, and
seen references to it, but I have never seen one, nor seen a mention of it
in any official Scott publication. Did it exist? I became even
more curious after finding a hand-written note from the factory to selected
dealers. The note instructed dealers to immediately destroy all
literature that mentioned a 50 HP motor. It had no explanation.
Later, I found a service bulletin that solved the mystery. At the 1963
Chicago Marine Trade Show, Scott announced they would market the 45 HP motor
as a 50 HP, since the engineering department had obtained considerably
better than 50 HP in dynamometer testing. Due to objections from
dealers, and the fact that numerous lakes had restrictions on motors 50 HP
and larger, Scott decided to continue rating the motor at 45 HP for 1964,
and instructed dealers to destroy all mention of a 50 HP.
Second, has anyone ever
heard of the McCulloch R-120? It was a revolutionary experimental
outboard designed by McCulloch's Advanced Development Division. It had many
features that were to become standard equipment on outboards 40 years later.
This proves there is no such thing as a new idea. I will quote from
the McCulloch literature:
"With 125 HP, the
R-120 is more compact than today's outboards of half the power. A
4-cylinder, radial 2-stroke engine, it
weighs only 260 lbs.,
hardly more than 2 lbs. per HP. It is 18" wide, 26" long and
52" high. The R-120 incorporates turbo-
supercharger plus
re-entry turbine. At top speed, gets an estimated 17 free HP from
supercharger-driven air impinging on
blades of
crankshaft-mounted re-entry turbine. Has direct cylinder fuel
injection to eliminate carburetors. Has forced-feed
lubrication to
eliminate need for mixing gas and oil. Fuel injection delivers greater
economy than is available in most 4-stoke
inboards. It has
power steering, variable pitch propeller, power tilt and trim. Only
the lower unit turns for steering."
Keep in mind this was 1961.
Next month we will cover Scott-made Hiawatha.
Welcome to the
Feb/March 2004 issue of Outboard News, an electronic
newsletter for the outboard enthusiast.
INDUSTRY NEWS
The big news from Mercury is the launch of the
all new Project X family of motors at the 2004 Miami Boat Show. The
new engine will be called Verado. It is the next generation of large 4
stroke engines, and will initially consist of four models ranging between
200 and 275 HP. Until now, the large Mercury 4 stroke engines were a
combined project with Yamaha. The Verado engine though is entirely
Mercury, from start to finish. Over 100 million dollars and four years were
spent in the development. It is the first production engine in history to be
supercharged. In the future, the new Verado technology will be
extended down to the 115 to 200 HP range, eventually replacing the Optimax
engine. Verado should be available in April, 2004. This fits in with
Mercury's plan to eliminate all 2 stroke engines by 2007.
Bombardier plans to go in a different direction
to meet the new anti-pollution laws. They will continue to develop and
expand the new family of E-Tec engines, with models up to 250 HP. They will
be based on the 3.3 liter 90 degree V-6 block that produces 250 HP in
Evinrude's Ficht Ram models. Says Bombardier: "We've taken the best of
both the 2 stroke and 4 stroke, thrown out the bad aspects of each, and
combined them into one engine. The E-tec is quieter and cleaner than
the 4 stroke." It is nice to see that the 2 stroke outboard motor
will not entirely disappear, at least for now.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
Spring is finally approaching, and it is almost
time to unwrap the boat from its long winter storage. Will it start
and run when you put it in the water for the first time? A lot depends
on whether it was properly winterized in the fall. If it was, all you
need to do is top off the gas tank with fresh fuel, make sure the
lower unit is filled to the top, charge the battery, and install new
spark plugs. The motor should now run as well as it did before it was
put away in the fall. If you neglected to winterize it, you have more
work to do. We will get into that in coming issues.
HISTORICAL
One type of promotion for outboard motors years
ago was radio spots. These are seldom heard today, but were quite
popular at one time. Of course, Mercury had their own way of doing
things, boasting "Your customer will hear the difference-- tie in to
Mercury Radio today!" Here is a recommended 50 second radio
commercial from 1968:
Thunderbolt turns you on and keeps you going!
Thunderbolt...designed and built by Mercury engineers...the first major
breakthrough in outboard motor ignition in 50 years. Thunderbolt can
deliver almost twice the electrical energy, twice as fast, as any other
electronic ignition system. Just turn the key and Thunderbolt ignition
fires up your Mercury. From idle all the way to full bore, power is
smooth and steady. Thunderbolt ignition dramatically increases your
engine's reliability, efficiency and safety because there are no breaker
points to wear out or replace. No more ignition tune-ups--and timing
never needs resetting. Mercury's Polar Gap spark plugs last for
years...not for a few weeks. Even badly fouled, shorted or oiled plugs
run fine when you can zap 40,000 Thunderbolt volts through them. You
get Thunderbolt ignition on every Mercury from the 50 HP Merc 500 to the
brand new 125 HP Merc 1250-- one reason they out perform anything in their
class. See your Mercury outboard dealer and let Thunderbolt ignition
turn you on!
Mercury even sponsored the evening news;
"Listen to Bill Stern, Chet Huntley and Harry Reasoner: all
brought to you by your Mercury Outboard Dealer."
Last issue we started talking about the Hiawatha
motors made by Gale. Starting in 1956, Hiawatha was made by
Scott-Atwater until production stopped in 1961. Here are the numbers:
Model
HP
1956
65-OM-325-7960-A
3.6
65-OM-325-7970-A
5
65-OM-325-7985-A 7.5
65-OM-325-7995-A
16
65-OM-325-8005-A
30
65-OM-325-8006-A
30
1957
A25-7960
3.6
A25-7970
5
B25-7985
7.5
A25-7995
16
21-4254
35
21-4257
35
1958
OM3-7960C
3.6
OM3-7969
5
OM3-7987A 7.5
OM3-7992A
10
OM3-8015A
38
OM3-8016A
38
1959
OM3-7960C
3.6
OM3-7969A
5
OM3-7987B 7.5
OM3-7992B
10
OM3-8001A
25
OM3-8002A
25
OM3-8018A
40
1960, 1961
OM3-7960C 3.6
OM3-7960C
7.5
OM3-7994A
12
OM3-7998A
25
OM3-7999A
25
OM3-8000A 25
OM3-8019A
40
OM3-8020A
40
OM3-8024A
60
OM3-8025A
60
Hiawatha stopped production after 1961.
Welcome to the Fall
2004 issue of Outboard News, an electronic newsletter for
the outboard enthusiast. This is the first newsletter since early
spring, due to the time constraints of being in such a seasonal business,
but newsletters should follow on a somewhat monthly basis.
INDUSTRY NEWS
The new technology being introduced by all the
manufacturers is quite impressive. Mercury has reintroduced the Tower
of Power; the only six cylinder in-line outboard. Starting in the late
fifties and running strong for many years, the concept was dropped in 1988.
Now the Verado continues the tradition, only as a four stroke. It is
the only six cylinder in-line four stroke, giving it all the torque inherent
in an in-line engine. It is small in displacement; 2.6L vs. 3.6L for
the Suzuki 250 HP V-6 four stroke. To compensate, Mercury added a
supercharger. The major engine components are aluminum, cast using a
pressurized lost foam process. Gray iron cylinder liners are just
1.5mm in thickness. The head features dual overhead cams and four
valves per cylinder. The cams have a hollow shaft to save weight, with
sintered steel cam lobes welded onto the shaft. The cam to valve stem
clearance is factory set and maintenance-free for the life of the engine.
This is the first production outboard engine with a supercharger-a Lysholm-type,
positive displacement with two teflon coated aluminum rotors. The
housing is anodized aluminum, and the supercharger is belt driven from the flywheel-end
of the engine by V-belts, which also drive a 70-amp alternator.
Power steering comes standard, and it has digital controls, which mean
no throttle and shift cables.
The second innovation is the Evinrude Vindicator
by Bombardier, a two-cylinder, two-stroke direct injected outboard of 55 HP.
This outboard can run on JP4,5 and 8; diesel 1 and 2; home heating oil #1;
kerosene; gasoline; ethanol and bio-diesel. This technology has been
demonstrated for the military on outboards of 30, 55, 80, 115, 150 and 200
HP and is in the final stages of development. The fuel selection
changeover is made by the operation of a two-position switch on the
starboard side of the engine: One position is for gasoline and the other
position is for all other fuels. The microprocessor takes care of the
rest. Production versions of this system will be limited to gasoline,
diesel and kerosene. The Vindicator is made possible by the marriage
of direct fuel injection and an innovative ignition system that is capable
of firing the sparkplug multiple times during the power and induction
stroke.
SERVICE
With the unpredictable weather we have gotten
over the last few months, hurricanes and all, the most common question
asked has been: What should I do if my motor has been submerged?
I hope this never happens to your engine, but if it does, the correct
response can make the difference between your motor running again with no
damage done, and the motor becoming junk. Time is of the essence.
Our goal is to get the motor running as soon as possible, hopefully with a
day or two. As soon as the motor comes out of the water, remove the spark
plugs and crank the engine over by hand until water no longer comes out of
the spark plug holes. If it is a large HP engine with electric start,
try cranking it over with the starter, if it works. If the starter
does not work, you may have electrical problems best serviced by your local repair
facility. In any event, try to get as much water out of it as
possible, and squirt a liberal amount of oil in the cylinders. If
your motor cranks over with smoothly, we will next need to drain the fuel
system. If the gas tank has been submerged, it probably has water in
it. Drain the gas tank and refill with fresh gas with some dry gas
added. Next remove the gas line going into the carburetor, and let
fresh gas flow through the system and drain into a container. When there
is no longer any sign of water coming out, re-attach the fuel line to the
carb. Then look for a fitting on the bottom of the carb to drain the
bowl. It may be a drain, or it may be the access nut for the high
speed jet, or it may be the high speed needle. Let all the water and
gas drain out of the carb. Next inspect the ignition system. If
you have a newer engine with electronic ignition, you will probably still
have spark. If you have an older engine with points and condensers,
you will have to pull the flywheel and blow out all traces of water with
compressed air. Next, try to start the engine. It should start
and run. I would suggest letting it run for at least 30 minutes to
remove all traces of water from the engine, and you should be OK.
Please send in service related questions to be
answered in future newsletters.
HISTORICAL
Last month we finished listing the numbers on
Hiawatha outboards. Continuing in alphabetical order with Lauson, but
skipping Johnson for now.
Lauson motors were made starting in 1940 as a
single cylinder, 4 cycle air cooled outboard. They were popular with
fishermen due to their excellent idling characteristics. After WWII,
Lauson came out with a 6 HP motor with a gearshift. They contemplated
a larger, radial design motor in the 50's, but dropped the idea. In
1956 Lauson sold out to Tecumseh.
Model
HP
1940-47
Sport King OB-410
2.5
1948
Sport King single
3
Sport King Twin
6
1949
S300
3
T600 6
1950
S350
3
T650
6
1951
T651
6
T651R
6
1952
S351
3
T651
6
T651R
6
1953
S353
3
T653
6
T653R
6
1954
S353
3
T653
6
T653R
6
1955
S353
3
T653
6
T653N
6
T653R
6
1956
S353
3
T653
6
T653N
6
Production was discontinued in
1956
Welcome to the December
2004 issue of Outboard News, an electronic newsletter for
the outboard enthusiast.
INDUSTRY NEWS
Outboard motor technology continues to evolve to
suit the ever-changing demands of the marketplace, as well as a myriad of
upcoming anti-pollution regulations. Most of the technology
enhancements are aimed at the direct-injected two strokes. Evinrude's new
E-TEC, and Mercury's Optimax are making strong challenges to the popular 4
strokes. Evinrude's E-TEC was introduced last year in two and three
cylinder engines. This year they are unveiling the V-6 version of the
E-TEC. They will be available in big-block 200, 225 and 250 HP models.
These are not brand-new powerheads as were the five original E-TEC engines.
Evinrude's 3.3L (200cid), 90-degree, big-block V-6 forms the basis for the
for the new V-6 E-TECs. It's the same block Evinrude has used for
years, but with different pistons, sleeves, exhausts, intakes and butterfly
plenums. The old 3.3L block's cooling system has been extensively
re-engineered to better cool the engine when running at full throttle.
The pistons have been redesigned and the wrist pins moved to reduce piston
slap. The oiling system has been changed so that the oil is delivered
directly to the connecting rod bearings for better lubrication, and less oil
is used in the process. The heart of the E-TEC system is a new fuel
injector for the direct-injection system. Unlike Evinrude's Ficht
system (still used on the small block V-6 engines and on the V-4's), which
employs a solenoid at each cylinder to force fuel into the combustion
chamber, E-TEC uses a coil surrounded by a magnet to move the piston. The
coil acts just like a speaker coil, but drives a piston instead of a cone.
The amount of fuel delivered to the cylinder depends on the length of the
piston stroke. The E-TEC system has two major advantages: First, the
E-TEC coil can develop more pressure (up to 700 psi) than the Ficht solenoid
(500 psi), and secondly, the polarity of the coil can be reversed, allowing
for better control of the piston and a quicker plunger return.
According to Bombardier engineers, the soot problems that affected early
Ficht systems have been totally eliminated with E-TEC. The new
system's increased injection pressures ensure better atomization of the
fuel, and a re-designed nozzle swirls the fuel as it enters the combustion
chamber. In addition, the intensity and duration of the spark ignition
is tailored to the needs of the engine depending on engine speed and
loading. All three features contribute to cleaner burning and
increased spark plug life. The E-TEC line of engines will continue to
expand. The technology can be used on engines as small as 3 HP.
The next set of anti-pollution regulations the
marine industry will have to deal with is carbon monoxide (CO) emissions.
The direct-injection two-strokes offer the lowest CO levels of any current
technology, so they are best prepared to handle the new regulations.
The four-stroke outboard manufacturers have recently been looking into the
implementation of catalytic converters. This has been a proven method
for reducing CO emissions in autos for years, but it remains to be seen how
catalytic converters will hold up to the marine environment, and what affect
it will have on the price of four-strokes.
SERVICE
Now that most boats are put away for the winter,
you may ask yourself: Did I put stabilizer in the fuel tank?
Well, if not, it's not too late. According to Mercury Marine, today's
fuel begins to deteriorate after only 15 days. In fact, it's a good
idea to always add stabilizer to your gas, no matter what time of year.
One final note to all you cold climate boaters: did you check the
lower unit for signs of water? Just a little water in the lower unit
can result in cracked housings and rusted bearings in the spring. Go
check it today.
NEW PARTS
We are always searching for new supplies of
parts for old motors. We have recently found a supplier of new breaker
points for the 3 cylinder Scott-McCulloch motors from 1960-69. These
are newly made, not old stock. We also have a fresh supply of new
cylinder head gaskets for the same 3-cylinder Scotts. Another new item
we just discovered are new ignition coils that will fit the 16 HP
Scott-Atwater and Firestone motors. I know of many motors that were
junked due to a lack of coils; well, no more. They will also fit many
other motors with a Wico ignition with the large size coil arbor.
HISTORICAL
The years following the close of WWII saw the
appearance of many minor outboard brands. One of those was Majestic.
They first appeared in 1950 and were made by Champion. They were
referred to as "King of the Outboard Motors", and quietly
disappeared from the scene in 1958 along with Champion.
Model
HP
1950
1MBB Standard Single
4.2
2MB Deluxe Single
4.2
4MB Deluxe Lite Twin
7.9
1951
same as 1950
1952
same as 1950
1953
M-2L Fisherman Special
3.5
M-3L-GS Gear Shift
5
M-4L-GS Gear Shift
8.5
1954
M-2LL Fisherman Special
3.5
M-3LL-GS Gear Shift
5.5
M-4LL-GS Gear Shift
7.5
M-6LL-GS Gear Shift
15
1955
same as 1954
1956
M-2N Fisherman Special
4.2
M-3NGS Gear Shift
6
M-4NGS Gear Shift 7.8
M-6NGS Gear Shift
15
1957
M-2N Fisherman Special
4.2
M-3N-GS Gear Shift
6
M-4N-GS Gear Shift
7.8
M-6N-GS Gear Shift
15
Production discontinued
Welcome to the January
2005 issue of OUTBOARD NEWS, an electronic newsletter for
the outboard enthusiast.
INDUSTRY NEWS
As we enter the new year, it is interesting to
note the different directions the domestic outboard manufacturers are moving
in. There are three names, and three different philosophies of how the meet
the needs of boaters in the future. Here is a rundown of the three:
Mercury will be taking the four stroke route
entirely by developing new and sophisticated designs to gradually replace
their two strokes. The Verado, which is a 6 cylinder in line four
stroke with supercharging, aftercooling, and digital throttle and shift,
will begin to replace the popular Optimax direct injected two strokes.
The Verado is available in 200, 225, 250 and 275 HP for 2005. In 2006,
the Verado line will include a 135, 150, and 175 HP four cylinder engine.
In recent years, some of Mercury's larger V-block four strokes had
components made by Yamaha. This will be ending, as Mercury terminates
a relationship with Yamaha that dates back at least 30 years. By 2008,
all the Mercury two strokes will be gone.
Evinrude is staking their future on the
continuation of two stroke technology. They are convinced that their
new E-Tec technology will prove superior to four strokes. They have
added a 3.3 liter V-6 E-Tec that puts out 200, 225 and 250 HP. The
E-Tec spans the range of 60 to 250 HP, and will soon debut in the low HP
segment of the market. They claim the E-Tecs are lighter, simpler,
cleaner, and just as quiet as any four stroke.
Johnson's future intentions are somewhat
cloudier. Johnson's line-up of motors is divided between four strokes
and old technology carbureted two strokes. The four strokes are all
being manufactured by Suzuki. The 8 HP four stroke has been dropped,
which was the last OMC designed four stroke in the line. Since all
carbureted two strokes must be gone in a few years to satisfy the
anti-pollution regulations, Johnson will not be left with much.
I think Evinrude will do well, because there
will always be a demand for a two stroke outboard. Mercury will have a
difficult time competing with the foreign motors, who have more experience
in four strokes, but I think their reputation and name will carry them
through. Johnson's future is a little less certain, unless they have
some new technology in the works.
SERVICE
One of the most common service questions asked
is about propellers. We will start this month with some propeller
basics: Pitch and diameter.
Props are identified by their diameter and
pitch. When you see a prop marked 13.75x21, the first number refers to
the prop's diameter, which is defined as twice the distance from the center
of the hub to the outer edge of the blade. (measured in inches). The
second number designates the pitch, or the distance the prop will move the
boat forward with each revolution. In this example, the blades
will draw a 13.75 inch diameter circle and the prop will move the boat
forward 21 inches each time it goes around.
In reality, the prop
won't move the boat forward 21 inches per revolution; the actual distance
will be somewhat less and the difference is called prop slip.
This is not a bad thing, because a prop must slip to develop thrust.
Prop slip can be as little as 8 percent for fast, lightweight hulls, and as
much as 20 percent for heavier boats.
Engine manufacturers
specify a maximum wide-open-throttle (WOT) rpm limit, or more
often, a WOT rpm range. The objective is to select a prop that allows
the engine to rev to this limit or into this range when operating at WOT
while the boat is carrying a typical load. Pitch is the measurement
that most closely controls WOT rpm.
As a general rule and
depending on gear ratio, we can expect engine speed to go up by 100 to 200
rpm for each 1-inch reduction in pitch. Conversely, for every 1-inch
increase, engine speed will fall by 100 to 200 rpm. Keep in mind that engine
is not the same as boat speed.
Next month: Number of blades
HISTORICAL
In the 1950's the race was on for larger and
faster outboard motors. The major manufacturers such as OMC, Mercury
and Scott kept adding cylinders and cubic inches in the HP race, but some,
such as Oliver, took a different approach. In a press release dated
April 28, 1958, Oliver boasts:
"This is
another step forward and is an Oliver FIRST in large horsepower in the
industry. It is accomplished through the use of two of our present
field proven Olympus motors with matched counter rotating propellers.
The practical elimination of torque and cavitation through the counter
rotating props, greatly improves the ease of steering of a boat.
Additional top speed of 3 to 4 MPH with counter rotating props can be
expected. The factory list price for this is $1280.00 for two
motors."
This is the first instance of a large HP twin
engine counter rotating design. It did not prove too popular, mainly
due to the high initial cost. A Mercury Mark 78 could be purchased in
1958 for $950. The counter rotation idea faded from view with the
demise of Oliver in 1960, only to become popular again many years later with
the advent of high horsepower outboards. To make a motor counter
rotating, Oliver made a simple modification to the shift linkage bell crank
in the exhaust housing, and changed the prop. The forward gear would
become the reverse gear, and the reverse would become the forward.
Oliver sold a kit for the do-it-yourselfer to change his motor to counter
rotating. Oliver was traveling in uncharted water though. In June of
1958, Oliver issued a service bulletin to correct previous instructions. It
instructed you to install the right hand rotation engine on the starboard
side of the boat, and the left hand engine on the port side. Trial and
error....
This month we will list the numbers for Martin
outboard motors.
Model HP
starting serial number
1946
60
7.2
25000
1947
40
4.5
15000
60
7.2
25000
1948
20 2.3 5000
40
4.5
15000
60
7.2 25000
1949
20
2.3
5000
40
4.5
15000
60
7.2 25000
1950
20
2.3 5000
40
4.5 15000
60
7.2 25000
66 7.2
25000
Hi-Speed 60 7.2
25000
100
10
55000
1951
20 2.3
5000
45 Synchro-twist
4.5 15000
75 Synchro-twist
7.5 25000
75 Twist Shift
7.5
25000
Hi-Speed 60
7.5
25000
Hi-Speed 100
10
55000
Standard 100
10
55000
1952
45
4.5
Synchro-twist
75 Aquamatic 7.5
Twist Shift
100 Aquamatic 10
Twist Shift
1953
20
2.3
5000
45
4.5
Synchro-twist
75 Aquamatic 7.5
Twist Shift
100 Aquamatic 10
Twist Shift
200-EHA Silver streak
20 65000
200-EHO3 Silver Streak 20
65000
1954
20
2.3
A-15000
45
4.5
BB-58000
75
7.5
CC-117000
100
10
DB-19000
200
20
EHD-9000
200
20 EHA-9000
Production discontinued
Welcome to the Fall
2005 issue of OUTBOARD NEWS, an electronic newsletter for
the outboard enthusiast. We regret that there were no spring or
summer issues, due to the time constraints that exist in such a seasonal
industry.
INDUSTRY NEWS
Mercury has recently confirmed their plans to
completely exit the traditional two-stroke outboard market. The last
two-stroke was shipped on May 27, 2005. After that date, only
four-stroke outboards will be available from the factory. The
line-up will include small HP motors made by Tohatsu and mid-range motors
made by Yamaha.
A decision has been made in the lawsuit
brought by Brunswick Corp against Yamaha Motors Corp. In the suit,
Mercury claimed that Yamaha has been dumping outboard motors in the US
marketplace, at artificially low prices, hurting US manufacturers.
The decision is: yes and no. The US International Trade
Commission has ruled that Yamaha has been dumping outboards, but that
Mercury has not been harmed by it. If the Commission had ruled
completely in Mercury's favor, tariffs would have been imposed on imports,
thus raising their cost. Yamaha intends to adjust their prices to
avoid the suit being refiled.
This will effectively
end a collaboration between Mercury and Yamaha that stretches back some 30
years. In recent years, Yamaha has been supplying 4 stroke
powerheads to Mercury for some mid range engines. This will end when the
contract expires in 2006.
Bombardier Recreational Products has received
the Clean Air Excellence Award from the EPA. for its Evinrude E-TEC
outboard engine. This is the first time ever a marine engine
manufacturer has received an award of Clean Air Excellence by the EPA.
BRP has demonstrated that with the new E-TEC engines, carbon monoxide
emissions are typically 30 to 50 percent lower that a similar 4-stroke
engine and, at idle, are lower by a factor of 50 to 100 times.
SERVICE
Last month we began a discussion of one of the
most misunderstood parts of an outboard motor: the propeller.
This month we look at what effect the number of blades have.
In theory, the most efficient propeller would
be a single-blade design. Unfortunately, it would be extremely difficult
to balance. Two-blade props were popular in the 1950's and 60's, but
are seldom seen today. Three and four blade props are currently the most
popular, and the more blades a prop has, the smoother it runs.
Also, as the number
of blades increases, the propeller's resistance through the water
increases. Depending on engine set-up and boat size, this may reduce
performance. In numerous instances, however, performance can be improved-
particularly on high-performance rigs. Four blade props tend to keep
more blade area in the water while allowing the prop to operate nearer the
surface. On offshore boats, this can reduce ventilation problems when
operating in rough seas. For sterndrives, it can also permit
operators to use more positive trim for increased speed. On
outboards, it can allow higher engine-mounting positions for reduced
lower-unit drag, again resulting in better top end speed.
A four-blade prop can
enhance the performance of a large cruiser, too. Heavy boats need more
blade area to carry the load. This can be accomplished in several
ways. The first is by increasing prop diameter, but there are
practical limits due to engine design. Making the blades larger on a
three-blade prop or adding more blades also increases blade area.
Larger, heavier boats that use "elephant ear" three-blades or
four or five-blade props may suffer a slight loss in top end speed, but
will correspondingly show an improvement in midrange efficiency and
acceleration. They are also likely to let the boat hold plane at
lower speeds and offer better handling around the dock.
When changing from a
three to four-blade prop the rule of thumb is to drop 1 inch in pitch.
Next issue- cup, rake and pitch.
HISTORICAL
This month we will discuss McCulloch outboard
motors. The McCulloch story is a fascinating story, worthy of a
whole book, but the short version begins in 1956. The Mcculloch
Corporation, which was already well known for its 2-cycle chain saws and
kart engines, was looking to diversify, and decided the booming and
profitable outboard motor business was the perfect venue. They
acquired Scott-Atwater, and jumped right into the boat motor business.
Robert McCulloch, who was a champion outboard hydroplane racer, then
applied his innovation genius to the outboards, and produced many designs
that were years ahead of their time. The company kept the Scott name
alive until 1964, when the motors began carrying the McCulloch
name. Production petered out in the late 60's with some Sears
labeled McCullochs remaining until about 1971. Replacement parts
remained readily available through Mcculloch until the early 80's. When
the company was sold to overseas interests after Robert McCulloch's death,
all outboard related items were dropped. But the question remains,
why did McCulloch stop producing outboard motors? The answer is.....
A BRIDGE. For more of the McCulloch story, go to the Reference
page of our website. It is too long to print here.
Model
HP
1958
3085
3.6
3785
5
3383
7.5
3885
10
3985
16
135
22
335
22
1336 40
1536
40
1636
40
3685
40
332 60
1959
130A
3.6
137A
5
133A
7.5
138A
10
135A, 335A 25
136A, 336A, 536A 40
332A
60
1960
A3BB 3.6
A3EB
7.5
A3FB
12
A3GB,C3GB
25
A3HB,C3HB,E3HB 40
C3JB, D3JB
60
1961, 1962, 1963 Year is designated by
first two digits of serial number.
Scotty
3.6
Fishing Scott
7.5
Fleet Scott 14.1
Sport Scott
27.7
Royal Scott
43.7
Flying Scott
75.2
Next issue will will list the McCulloch
labeled motors starting in 1964.
Robert McCulloch; an outboard innovator
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