REFERENCE LIBRARY

This page consists of information to assist in identifying and servicing your motor, as well as historical items of interest.

Send in your suggestions

Welcome to the January 2002 issue of Outboard News, an electronic newsletter for the outboard enthusiast.

Industry News

The most important thing this time of year for the marine industry is the winter boat shows. Manufacturers and dealers alike are hoping for a good show season to help bring the industry out of its current slump. We would like to encourage everyone to attend their local show to see what's new and exciting for this year.

The full line of new Johnsons and Evinrudes should be at the winter shows. To help recapture lost market share, Bombardier will offer aggressive promotions and rebate plans for winter purchases. One new marketing plan for Johnson and Evinrude will be to separate the lines, and make a major distinction between the two. Johnson will be geared to the traditional, angler market; offering the standard carbureted 2-strokes and a new line of 4-strokes. The Evinrude line will consist of 2-strokes with the Ficht Ram injection system.

Another name disappears. Mariner outboards will no longer be sold in this country. Blame US EPA regulations.

Service Department

This month we will discuss the second most important procedure for assessing the condition of an outboard, and for diagnosing problems. Last month we talked about compression and the compression tester. This month the subject is spark to the spark plugs and the spark tester.

Every outboard, especially older ones, needs a good, strong, hot spark in order to start easily and to run properly.

To test for spark, some people ground the spark plug electrode to the engine block, and then spin the flywheel.

THIS IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH. To do a proper test, you need a special spark tester. It is a device that you clamp to a good engine ground, and plug the wires that come out of it into the spark plug boots. When you spin the flywheel, the spark from each wire will jump an adjustable gap on the tester, and this will tell you if the spark is adequate. If you obtain a good spark on all cylinders, you can probably eliminate the ignition system as a source of problems. If you have no spark or an intermittent spark, you will need to troubleshoot the ignition system. There are two basic types of ignition systems. One is the old fashioned points and condensers, the other is electronic ignition. Next month we will begin to go inside the old fashioned ignition system.

To see a picture of the spark tester, and to find out where to get one, go to the helpful products page of my website. There is a link at the end of the newsletter.

Upcoming service topics:

Troubleshooting the ignition system.

How to reseal the lower unit.

Send in your suggestions

Questions and Answers

There were no questions sent in this month. You may send in any outboard related question, and I will attempt to answer it in an upcoming newsletter.

Historical info

Fact: In February 1941, the government issued an order called M-1-a, which required special permission for the use and casting of aluminum. Since the outboard was strictly for portable application, heavy metals could not be substituted for aluminum. This meant possible bankruptcy for Mercury. It was at this time that the government expressed a need for a light-weight gasoline motor of approximately 4 HP, suitable for powering a portable chain saw. In May 1942, Kiekhaefer received a contract for 3,300 saw engines, which turned out to be the rescue from ruin that the company needed.

In future issues, I will include information from old factory service bulletins and manuals. Some of you may find this one interesting; it is a bulletin from 1950 from Mercury concerning KG9 engine timing and synchronizing. If you would like more of this type of information, let me know. I have a lot of it.

This month's motor is Buccaneer-Gale.

Gale was a division of OMC, the parent company of Johnson and Evinrude. As a result, the Gale motors are very similar to Johnson and Evinrude. In some cases almost identical. Gale motors were called "Buccaneer".

model # starting serial# HP

1950

1B10 330644 1.5

1B9 330744 3

2B7 331944 5

2B8 335212 12

1951

3S10B 359147 3

3D10B 359147 3

5S10B 362047 5

5D10B 362097 5

12S10B 365588 12

12D10B 370588 12

1952

3D10B 359147 3

5D10B 362097 5

12S10B 365588 12

12D10B 370588 12

1953

3D11B 478335 3

5S10B 362047 5

5D10B 362097 5

12S10B 365588 12

12D10B 370588 12

1954

3D11B 478335 3

5S10B 362047 5

5D10B 362097 5

12D11B 510284 12

1955

3D11B 478335 3

5S11B 566202 5

12D11B 510284 12

1956

3D13B 590881 3

5S12D 594196 5

5D12B 583412 5

5D13B 616780 5

12S12B 600289 12

12D13B 570692 12

12D14B 637321 12

12DE13B 604988 12

12DE14B 595186 12

22D11B 622204 25

22DE11B 587456 25

22DE13B 622617 25

1957

3D14B 646994 3

5S13B 647036 5

5D14B 642835 5

12S13B 647066 12

12D15B 646997 12

12D15BL 12

12DE15B 655020 12

12DE15BL 12

22D14B 647075 25

22DE14B 647090 25

22DE14BL 25

1958

3D15B 709217 3

5S14B 715224 5

5D15B 690702 5

12S13B 697575 12

12D17B 708987 12

22D15B 715974 25

22DE15B 715874 25

35DE10B 726798 35

1959

3D15B 3

5D16B 5

12D18B 12

22D16B 25

22DE16B 25

35D11B 35

35D12B 35

35DE11B 35

35DE12B 35

1960

3D16B 772311 3

5D17B 775436 5

15D10B 772861 15

22D17B 771886 25

22DE17B 772136 25

35D13B 786886 35

35DE13B 789336 35

35DG13B 35

60D10B 798466 60

60DE10B 795386 60

60DG10B 60

1961

3D17B 3

5D18B 5

15D11B 15

25D18B 25

25DE18B 25

40D14B 40

40DG14B 40

40DE14B 40

60D11B 60

60DE11B 60

60DG11B 60

1962

3D18B 3

5D20B 5

15D13B 15

25D19B 25

25DE19B 25

40D15B 40

40DG15B 40

40DE15B 40

60D11B 60

60DE11B 60

60DG11B 60

1963

Buccaneer 3 3

Buccaneer 5 5

Buccaneer15 15

Buccaneer25 25

Buccaneer40 40

Sovereign40 40

Sovereign60 60

1963 was the last year of production by GALE.

Next Month: Champion

Welcome to the February 2002 issue of Outboard News, an electronic newsletter for the outboard enthusiast.

UPCOMING EVENTS

There will be an old outboard motor swap meet on February 9, 2002. It will be held at our shop located at 5 Ward Rd, N. Tonawanda NY 14120 starting at 9 AM. It is being sponsored by the local chapter of the Antique Outboard Motor Club. There will be old motors and parts for sale and trade. Bring whatever you have to swap or sell. There will be a large indoor test tank available to run motors.

INDUSTRY NEWS

There is not much news this time of year. Local boat shows are continuing, and sales are reported to be very strong. Johnson and Evinrude are showing a strong resurgence with aggressive sales and marketing. The takeover by Bombardier should prove to be a positive move for the industry in general.

SERVICE DEPARTMENT

Last month we discussed how to check for spark to the spark plugs. This month we will learn how to pull the flywheel to correct any problems in the ignition system.

Pulling the flywheel is sometimes the most difficult part of the repair job. First step is getting to the flywheel. Remove the shrouds, recoil, or gas tank from the top of the motor, if it has any. You must then hold the flywheel while removing the flywheel nut with the proper size socket on the end of a breaker bar. The easiest way to hold the flywheel is with a strap wrench. You can see a picture of one on the helpful products of our website. Next step is to pull the flywheel. There are several types of pullers available. The type we use most often on small motors is the simple type of gear puller with two arms that grab the edges of the flywheel from above, with a long screw that you tighten on the crankshaft. There are some motors that this will not work on, or if the flywheel is stuck, too much pressure applied to the screw can damage the flywheel. In these cases, use the type of puller similar to a steering wheel puller with three screws that you screw into threaded holes in the top of the flywheel. With either puller, after tightening the center screw against the crankshaft, rap on the top of the screw with a hammer, and the flywheel should come right off. It is often a good idea to leave the flywheel nut loosely on the crankshaft, just below the top of the crankshaft. On some motors, like the small Scott-Atwaters, you can damage the threads by tightening the puller screw. You may run into some outboards that this procedure will not work on, for some reason or another. In this case call or email for further directions.

The arm type puller can be purchased from any auto parts store, or at Sears. The screw type puller can be purchased from the same sources, or the outboard manufactures make a very nice one. We sell the Mercury puller. You may order this puller or the strap wrench from our website.

Next month we will discuss what to with the ignition system once you get the flywheel off.

HISTORICAL INFO

This month's motor is Champion.

Year model HP

1935 A Std Single 3.2

1936 1B Std Single 3.2

1936 2B Lite Twin 4.4

1936 3B Senior Twin 7.6

1937 S1C Std Single 2.9

1937 D1C Deluxe Single 3.2

1937 S2C Std Lite Twin 3.4

1937 D2C Deluxe Lite Twin 4.4

1937 D3C Deluxe Senior Twin 6.6

1937 R1C Red Flash Single 3.2

1938 S1D Std Single 2.9

1938 D1D Deluxe Single 3.2

1938 S2D Std Lite Twin 3.4

1938 D2D Deluxe Lite Twin 4.4

1938 D3D Deluxe Senior Twin 6.6

1939 S1E Std Single 2.9

1939 D1E Deluxe Single 3.2

1939 D2D Deluxe Lite Twin 4.4

1939 D3D Deluxe Senior Twin 6.6

1940 S1F Kingfisher Single 3.2

1940 D1F Challenger Single 3.2

1940 S2F Fish Hawk Lite Twin 3.4

1940 D2F Play Boy Lite Twin 5.5

1940 B1F Blue Streak Single 3.2

1941 S1G Kingfisher Single 3.0

1941 D1G Challenger Single 3.0

1941 S4G400 Std Single 3.6

1941 D4G400 Deluxe Single 3.6

1941 2G Viking Twin 5.3

1941 3G Electra Twin 6.1

1941 M1G Ensign Single 3.0

1941 M4G Commodore Single 3.6

1941 M2G Admiral Twin 5.3

1942 1H Super Single 3.9

1942 2H Viking Twin 5.8

1946 1J Standard Single 4.2

1946 2J Deluxe Single 4.2

1947 1J Standard Single 4.2

1947 2J Deluxe Single 4.2

1948 1K Standard Single 4.2

1948 2K Deluxe Single 4.2

1948 4K Twin 7.9

1949 1K 4.2

1949 2K 4.2

1949 4K 7.9

1949 4KS Special Racer 7.9

1950 1L 4.2

1950 2K 4.2

1950 2L-HD 4.2

1950 4K 7.9

1950 4L-HD 7.9

1950 4LS Special Racer 7.9

1951 1L 4.2

1951 2K 4.2

1951 2l-HD 4.2

1951 4K 7.9

1951 4L 8.5

1951 4L-HD 8.5

1951 4L-S Hot Rod Special 8.5

1952 1L 4.2

1952 2K 4.2

1952 2L-HD 4.2

1952 4L 8.5

1952 4L-HD 8.5

1952 4L-S 1X Hot Rod Special 8.5

1953 2M 3.5

1953 3M-GS Shift 5.0

1953 4M-GS Shift 7.5

1953 4M-HD 7.5

1953 6M-GS Shift 15

1953 6M-HD 15

1953 4M-HR ClassJU Hot Rod 7.5

1953 5M-HR Class AU Hot Rod not rated

1953 6M-HR Class BU Hot Rod 15

1954 2MM 3.5

1954 3M-GS Shift 5.0

1954 4M-GS Shift 7.5

1954 4M-HD 7.5

1954 6M-GS Shift 14

1954 6M-HD 15

1954 4M-HR Class JU Hot Rod not rated

1954 4M-HR Midget not rated

1954 5M-HR Class AU Hot Rod not rated

1954 6M-HR Class BU Hot Rod not rated

1955 3MM-GS Shift 5.5

1955 4MM-GS Shift 7.5

1955 6MM-GS Shift 16.5

1955 6MS-GS Shift 16.5

1955 4MM-HR Class AU Hot Rod not rated

1955 6MM-HR Class BU Hot Rod not rated

1956 2N 4.2

1956 3N-S 6

1956 4N-D 7.8

1956 6N-D 16.5

1956 6N-MS 16.5

1956 6N-HR Class BU Hot Rod not rated

1957-8 2N 4.2

1957-8 3N-S 6

1957-8 4N-D 7.8

1957-8 6N-D 16.5

1957-8 6N-MS 16.5

1957-8 T6N-MS Tandem 33 consisted of twin 16.5's

1957-8 6N-HR Class BU Hot Rod not rated.

Next Month Chris Craft

Welcome to the March 2002 issue of Outboard News, an electronic newsletter for the outboard enthusiast.

INDUSTRY NEWS

The evolution of the outboard motor continues. Four stroke outboard motors are gaining in popularity, as manufacturers continue to improve the technology and overcome many of the advantages two strokes have always had, such as light weight and high horsepower.

Honda and Yamaha have been making four strokes for years, but 2002 marks the introduction of the big V-6. Honda is selling both a 200 and a 225 HP engine, both based on a 212 cubic inch V-6 60 degree block. Yamaha's big motors are also 200 and 225 HP, based on a 3.3 liter 60 degree V-6 block, with double overhead cams, 24 valves and tuned intake tubes. The weight is a modest 580 lbs, comparable to a similar 2 stroke outboard.

Mercury, long known for its 2 stroke engines, is the world's largest 4 stroke manufacturer, offering 55 different engines from 4 HP to 115 HP.

Suzuki has come out with the DF140, a 4 stroke 4 cylinder engine weighing only 410 pounds. It has dual overhead cams and four valves per cylinder, with a two stage cam drive and offset driveshaft that make for a smaller overall engine.

Ironically, though, it is still the conventional 2 stroke that dominates industry wide sales. The market share breaks down as follows: 70 percent for conventional 2 strokes, 20 percent for 4 strokes and 10 percent for direct-injection 2 strokes.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

A reader asked a question regarding last issue's discussion on pulling flywheels. He asks: Have you ever looked at the top of the flywheel on a Johnson TD-20? I do not want to disengage all those little springs in the rewind mechanism attached to the flywheel to get to the three screws.

Well, on most motors that have the springs and pawls on the flywheel, you don't have to take the mechanism apart to pull the flywheel. Those clever engineers used a special flywheel nut that has a shoulder on it that pushes against the bottom of the pulley when you loosen the nut. This acts as its own flywheel puller and actually makes it easy to remove the flywheel.

Keep those questions coming.

Service Department

Last month we talked about pulling the flywheel. this month we will talk about servicing what you find under the flywheel.

Most small older outboards have one set of coil, points and condenser under the flywheel for each cylinder. All of these components must be in good condition in order to get a strong spark to the spark plug. Unfortunately, it is difficult for the amateur to test the coil and condenser. There are special testers for testing these items, and the tester is becoming more difficult to locate. Years ago, you could carry your coils and condensers into any marina and ask them to test them for you, and they would gladly do so. But that is not generally the case anymore. We will test any coils or condensers at no charge, either if you bring them in or mail them to us.

This being the case, it is best to just replace the points and condensers if they are available. They can usually be found for most outboards built after WWII. If your motor is older than this, or you cannot locate the parts, you can usually get by with taking the points out and polishing the contacts with superfine emerycloth, cleaning them well and reinstalling them. There is no way to tell if a condenser is any good by looking at it, and a weak condenser will prevent you from getting a good spark. In most cases, it is enough to locate a new condenser that is similar in design, as long as you can make it fit. It is sometimes obvious if your coils are bad. If the outer casing is cracked, as is common on older Johnsons and Evinrudes and some others, replace them. If the coils look OK, test for spark as discussed in an earlier issue, and if you get a nice strong spark on your spark tester, the coils are probably OK.

One consideration is what your plans are for the motor. If you are intending to get the motor running and put it on a boat and use it, I would recommend installing new coils if you can get them, regardless of what the old ones look like. From our experience in the shop, good used coils may put out a spark of around 5-10 KV, which is enough to run the motor, but new coils will put out a spark in excess of 20 KV, which will make a big difference in how the motor starts and runs.

Next step is to set the point gap. Most outboards call for a gap of .020". Turn the crankshaft until the points are at their maximum opening, and set them. Then turn the crankshaft 180 degrees and set the other. On some outboards, especially the 10 HP Johnson and Evinrude, it is easier to set the points with the flywheel on, utilizing the hole in the top of the flywheel.

Hopefully, everyone now has a good spark to the spark plug, which is the most important element of getting an old outboard to run. If you have a newer outboard without points and condensers, call for servicing information. If you have specific questions, email me. Next month we will move to the carburetor.

NEW PARTS

We have aquired a limited supply of Tillitson carb parts for the West Bend outboards. These parts include carb gaskets kits and needle and seat assemblies.

HISTORICAL INFO

Following is an excerpt from a Mercury service bulletin dated August 12, 1950.

SUBJECT: Throttle Position KG-7

High speed operating position of the spark lever is extremely important on the KG-7 Hurricane. This adjustment will vary considerably, depending on the type and weight of the boat being used. Those owners using Quicksilver lower units on comparatively light hulls will affectively operate the engine with the spark throttle at the extreme advance position.

When heavier type boats with engines employing standard lower units are used, the extreme advance position of the spark will cause preignition. This will noticeably affect the performance of the engine causing it to slow down.

Advise all owners to follow these instructions for correct operating position of spark lever.

1. Start motor and allow to warm up for several minutes at slow speed.

2. Slowly advance spark lever to extreme fast position.

3. From this position slowly return the lever toward "slow" until the engine begins to lose speed.

4. Next advance the lever toward the fast position approximately 1/4 to 1/2 inch. This will be the correct full speed operating position. Mark this position on the protector rim for future operating reference.

IMPORTANT

Never use more spark advance than just what is needed to maintain maximum R.P.M.

This month's motor is Chris-Craft.

Chris-Craft outboards had a short but interesting history. I will not get into that here, but production of this popular motor came to an abrupt end in 1954, some say because they bore too close a resemblance to Mercurys in certain ways.

Model Name HP

1949

J Challenger 5.5

1950

J Challenger 5.5

K Commander 10

1951

J Challenger 5.5

K Commander 10

1952

J Challenger 5.5

K Commander 10

1953

J Challenger 5.5

K Commander 10

Next month Chrysler

Welcome to the April 2002 issue of Outboard News, an electronic newsletter for the outboard enthusiast.

INDUSTRY NEWS

Mercury Marine recently entered into a new era of technology by opening North America's only pressurized lost foam foundry, which is located at Mercury's world headquarters in Fond due Lac, WI.

The new Mercury Castings' foundry features a proprietary pressurized technology that will serve as a benchmark, not only for the casting industry, but also for the boating industry.

Unlike earlier lost foam casting processes, 150 psi of pressure is applied to the molten aluminum after it has been poured. This new casting process allows Mercury to produce highly complex components that have intricate internal features and shapes that are not easily or efficiently created using traditional die-casting methods.

Prior to this technology, eight separate die castings were needed to produce a 60 HP block. This new process uses only one cast, which is lighter, less expensive, and also eliminates the need for several subsequent machining operations.

Something new is on the horizon. Something that has never before been seen on an outboard motor. Thanks to those terrific new anti-pollution laws, the outboard manufacturers are currently designing catalytic converters to be installed on their engines.

The two largest obstacles to overcome in adopting catalysts is keeping water from getting in contact with them, and keeping the engine cool, both of which are the subject of much testing by manufacturers and regulatory agencies.

For higher horsepower engines, a catalyst could easily ad $1000 to the price of an engine, and 10-15 pounds weight.

SERVICE DEPARTMENT

Now that spring has finally arrived, I thought this would be an appropriate time to discuss how to get your outboard ready for the season. Most outboards will fall into one of two basic categories. The first is the outboard that was used last season and then properly winterized and stored. The second is the outboard that has been sitting in the barn or garage for an untold number of years, unused and not winterized.

The first is easy. Simply uncover the engine, check that the spark plugs are in tight, top off the lower unit lube, charge the battery and fill the fuel tank with fresh fuel. The engine should start right up and be ready to use.

The second situation is more difficult. First, get as much of the old fuel out of the system as possible, and refill with fresh fuel. Next, install new spark plugs. Next drain and fill the lower unit with lube. Now, try to start it and hope for the best. If the engine starts and stays running, let it run for a while to blow out the cobwebs. Check for an adequate flow of cooling water out of the exhaust, and off you go, feeling fortunate that things turned out as well as they did.

If the engine did not start, or started but would not stay running, then it's time to get out the tool box. For help on how to proceed next, see previous and future issues of this newsletter.

NEW PARTS

Laing's Outboards has acquired a large quantity of new old stock Scott-Atwater and McCulloch parts. They include impellers, coils, points, condensers, powerhead gasket sets, piston rings, lower unit seal kits and more. Some of the parts are in large enough quantities that I am able to offer significant quantity discounts. If you like to work on Scotts, now is the time to stock up on parts. Remember; these parts are no longer being manufactured anywhere, so when they are gone, that's it. If you would like an inventory list and more info on prices and discounts, let me know.

HISTORICAL INFO

25 years ago- April 1977: A mighty Mercury Black Max 1750 pulls a record 20 water skiers around the lagoon at Sea World, Orlando. This feat broke the previous record of 17 Australian skiers, pulled by a 200 HP OMC outboard.

This month's motor is Chrysler. Chrysler is just one part of a long lineage of outboards. It starts with the Kissel Motor Car Co. back in the 1930's, which made small outboards, some of which were sold by Sears under the name Waterwitch. After WWII, Kissel was taken over by West Bend Aluminum Co., which continued to manufacture motors for Sears, calling them Elgin. In the 1950's, West Bend started to sell motors under their own name, and enjoyed much success, gaining a reputation as a manufacturer of high quality products. In 1965, West Bend was purchased by the Chrysler Corp. which continued to manufacture the engines. The Chrysler engines were always good sellers, known as good running, basic, uncomplicated engines. In the early 1980's, the Chrysler Corp was undergoing many financial problems. Part of the financial bail-out plan of Chrysler was that they sell their non-automotive assets. In 1984, the marine division was sold to US Marine of the Brunswick Corp. The engines continued as Force until the line was discontinued in 2000 due to their inability to meet upcoming anti-pollution regulations.

Chrysler made so many models of engines, I cannot begin to list the individual model numbers here. If you have specific questions about Chrysler or identifying a model, send me an email. However I will go into more detail in future issues about West Bend and some of private label engines they sold.

Next month Clinton

Welcome to the May 2002 issue of outboard news, an electronic newsletter for the outboard enthusiast.

INDUSTRY NEWS

It is becoming increasingly difficult to tell one motor from another without a scorecard. Rumors are flying that Mercury will be marketing a 225 HP 4 stroke outboard that will be made in Japan by Yamaha. Whether this indicates a problem by Mercury in developing their own big 4 stroke engine, or if it is just an interim measure while Mercury puts the finishing touches on their own motor is hard to say, but the agreement actually calls for Mercury to buy as many as 4000 full Yamaha Engines.

Mercury and Yamaha have worked together on various projects in the past, with several joint venture agreements dating back to 1972, under which one would provide a specific component to the other. In some cases, Mercury would get engine blocks only and then build up the powerheads; in other cases, Mercury would provide the powerheads or cylinder heads with Mercury-built parts and send them back to Yamaha.

When Bombardier took over OMC, they agreed to continue OMC's supply agreement with Suzuki. Many of the small Johnson 4-stroke engines will be made by Suzuki.

SERVICE DEPARTMENT

This month we will discuss lower units and lower unit lubricant, mainly as it applies to the older motors.

In the old days, many motors used grease in the lower unit. My preferred replacement for this is a Lubriplate 105 lube. It is thinner than the old grease, but thicker than the modern lube, and will not wash right out if your seals are a little leaky.

Most motors built after about 1950 will use a modern 90 weight outboard gear lube. One of the most common questions we receive is: "can I use a 90 weight automotive gear lube in my outboard motor?" The answer is NO. The main difference between them is how they react to the presence of water. Most lower units on older outboards leak a little bit, and some water in the gear lube is almost inevitable. With an automotive gear lube, if water is added to it, it will mix together and destroy the lubricating properties of the gear lube. Outboard gear lube is specially formulated to not mix with water. This is why when you pull out the bottom drain screw on your lower unit, you sometimes see clear water run out before the gear lube comes out. This is a sure sign of a leak. If the gear lube is just discolored, don't jump to conclusions and assume you have a problem with your seals. The best way to tell for sure if you have a leak is to pressure test your unit.

First it is necessary to remove the lower unit from your motor. Undo all the retaining bolts and disconnect your shift linkage. The lower unit will then slide out. Drain out all the lube. You can then take your unit to your local outboard shop, and for a nominal fee they will pressurize the unit for you, and spray soapy water around all the seals. If there is a leak, you will see bubbles appear, much the same as testing a tire for leaks. Don't forget to rotate the shafts and try to wobble them back and forth to try to get them to leak. For the do-it-yourselfer, you may want to consider buying a lower unit pressureizer. They are inexpensive and very useful. For more information on them, see the helpful products page on our website. Next month we will discuss how to replace the leaky seals.

HISTORICAL

The following is from a Mercury service bulletin dated May 25, 1950.

Subject: 1. Adjustment of KF-7 and KG-7 Multiple Disc

Clutch

2. Adjustment of KF-3 and KF-5 Multiple Disc

Clutch

Subject 1. The proper torque pressure on the clutch plates of the KF-7 and KG-7 models is set at the factory at 22-28 foot pounds. If the pressure required to slip clutch is greater than 28 ft pounds, it will be necessary to remove the prop nut and add additional steel shims located on prop shaft spline shoulder. The reverse procedure is necessary if the torque pressures are less than 22 ft pounds, that is, removing several steel shims. Lock prop nut in position with locking tab washer when adjustment is correct. Replace all graphite grease lost due to disassembly of clutch.

Note: The clutch on KF-7 engines with serial numbers beginning with 368274 have 14 thin fiber discs and 13 thin steel plates. Engines below this serial number had 8 fiber and 7 steel plates which were of greater thickness.

Subject 2: The proper torque pressure on the clutch plates of the KF-3 and KF-5 models is set at the factory at 100-125 inch pounds when disks are wet. This simulates actual operating conditions. If torque pressure is below 100 inch pounds add one or more .010 shims(part #M-50-230) directly above the locking tab washer. If necessary to reduce the pressure, remove steel shim or slightly loosen prop nut if all shims have been removed. Caution: Lock prop nut in position with locking tab washer when adjustment is correct. Do not use graphite lubricant on clutch plates. (KF-5 orKF-3).

This month's motor is Clinton

model starting serial number HP

1955

29 2.5

29-R 2.5

49-R 4

59-R 5.5

61-RR 5.5

1956

30 2.5

30-R 2.5

50-R 4

60-R 5.5

62-RR 5.5

1957

J7 31000 5

1958

J7 5

1959

J9 15000 5

1960

J9 80000 5

1961

J9 80000 5

1962

J9 95000 5

1963

J9 10700 5

1964

J9 Clinton 0001 5

J9 Chief 0001 5

J9 Apache 0001 5

1965

J9 Clinton 5

J9 Chief 5

J9 Apache 5

J5 Clinton III 3

J5 Sprite 3

J5 Apache 5

1966

Peerless III 089665 3

Peerless V 089665 5

Chief J9 00281 5

Sprite 55330 3

1967

Peerless V 089665 5

Chief J9 00281 5

1968

J9-1000 Clinton 157122 5

J9-1105 Chief 157122 5

J9-1150 Peerless 157122 5

1969

AJ9 Clinton 200061 5

BJ9 Clinton 230000 3.5

AJ9 Chief 210000 5

BJ9 Chief 240000 3.5

AJ9 Peerless 220000 5

BJ9 Peerless 250000 5

1970

J-200 2

J-350 3.5

J-500 5

J-700 7

We will continue with Clinton next month.

Welcome to the June/July 2002 issue of Outboard News, an electronic newsletter for the outboard enthusiast.

INDUSTRY NEWS

Dramatic changes in the outboard world continue. The long and historic line of West Bend-Chrysler-Force will officially come to an end in 2002. Mercury Marine, who produced Force outboards and had continued to supply many West Bend and Chrysler parts, has announced the they will no longer support these motors after this year. That means that all Force dealerships will be dropped, and no more parts will be produced. Mercury will totally disassociate themselves from West Bend-Chrysler-Force.

What this means is that anyone who owns one of these motors should start to stock up on replacement parts while they are still available. The aftermarket companies will continue to carry some parts like points and condensers, fuel parts, gaskets and some impellers, but anything that is just made by Mercury will be hard to find after the current stock is gone.

When asked why Mercury will no longer support these engines, the Mercury representative said "It's too expensive."

We are now down to two American outboards: Mercury and Johnson/Evinrude. Which will be the next to go?

SERVICE DEPARTMENT

This time of year, our service department is deluged with phone calls asking for general information on outboards. I thought it may be interesting to share some of these questions.

By far, the most common question we get is: "I forgot what the oil-gas mix is for my motor. Can you tell me?"

The answer is usually 50-1. Most outboards still being used today that require a gas-oil mix run fine on 50-1. The only exceptions are your older 1950's vintage motors that still need a 25-1 mix.

Number two is: "Why won't my motor start? It ran good last time I used it 10 years ago" The answer to this question is usually slightly longer than the previous question. Are you using fresh gas? Or is the gas 10 years old too? Try draining the carb and pump fresh gas into it. Install new spark plugs, making sure you have the plug wires hooked up properly. If it still doesn't start, you better bring it in to the shop.

Number three is: "My motor has a low speed miss. How can I fix it?" The answer is usually that the carb is running too lean. Many people test run their motors at home on a garden hose or in a bucket of water, and adjust the carb for a good idle with no load on the motor, which will often result in too lean a setting when under power. Try turning the adjustment screw out about 1/4 turn.

Number four is: "My motor stalls when I slow down to shift. What can I do about it?" Well, everyone should know where their idle speed stop screw is located. As throttle linkages become sloppy from age, the idle speed needs to be reset periodically (Force motors are especially known for this). Find your idle stop and raise your idle speed slightly. This should correct the problem.

HISTORICAL

The following is from an old Mercury dealer mailing dated August 19, 1955

     MERCURY BOAT HOUSE BULLETIN: A factual report
     from the Mercury proving grounds.

Test no. 55-63

Make of boat: Penn Yan

Built by: Penn Yan Boat Co.

Boat type: Runabout (Swift)

Net hull weight 235lbs

Length 12' 3"

Beam 58"

All tests are conducted over an accurately measured

course, and certified by a graduate engineer.

Gross weight 550lbs

Engine Mark 55 prop 48-23587

Transom height Tilt Pin Hole Speed

16.5 " 2 37.65 mph

16.5 " 3 38.95 mph

17.5 " 3 41.10 mph

This bulletin is strictly for the people who are interested

in speed only, and to show how a boat is set up for

speed. An addition was built on the transom and two

metal braces were installed to reinforce same.

In setting up a boat for maximum speed, run the first test

with the engine way in close to the transom; then move it

out one tilt pin hole at a time until maximim performance

is reached.

Next start adding 1/4 " sticks (rev sticks) on top of the

transom until speed starts dropping off or the prop starts

cavitating; when this happens, lower the transom 1/4"